Dear Tom,
The heat exchanger of my current furnace has a crack and metal flakes in the firebox, this has been verified by a smoke bomb test.
I built my home in 1986 with 6 inch fiberglass bat insulation and 1 inch of foam, purchased from you, over the walls before sheetrock, 12 inches of fiberglass in the ceiling with an 1 inch of foam.
The home is positioned to get the most light from the winter sun at its lowest point. There are no windows on the north only the garage. I am heating about 1800 square ft.
I put in an 84% efficient oil force hot air furnace with a reduced nozzle In the furnace it is rated at 90,000 btu's, I have used an average of 375 gallons of oil a year. I currently have a Sear survivor electrical hot water tank, this an all plastic construction and will never rot out.
I am considering a;
1. Hallowell Heat Pump @ 12,500.00 with a dehumidifier/hot water heater. I am aware of the problems between NyleTherm and Hallowell.
2. A 90 % efficient oil force hot air furnace manufactured by Thermo pride , with a 2 stage burner and blower. Cost unknown at this time.
3. A 96 % efficient LP condensing gas furnace with a variable speed blower and burner. Cost unknown at this time. Installing a LP gas fireplace later this year and may consider an on demand water heater if this is the choice.
I will have to install an air conditioning system in the house for a medical condition and because of casement windows I have discounted a room air conditioner.
Any advice you can give to help me make this decision I would appreciate.
Bruce Ireland
Hi Bruce,
I would consider the Heat Pump system since you need air conditioning.
One thing I would want to be sure of is a warranty on the system. I would keep the electric hot water heater for backup since the heat pump water heater has the possibility to chill the basement
to an uncomfortable level in the winter.
I would also consider a wood or pellet stove for backup.
Tom


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