Hi Tom,
Has anyone come up with a good solution to insulate windows on cloudy
days and long winter nights? Even with argon filled low e units, this
seems to be the greatest source of heat loss after insulating walls,
attic and basement. I was told by the distributor of very costly roll
up window quilts that they "are NOT an energy saving device", so
needless to say he was less than convincing at selling them to me. I
suspect condensation could become a problem with many designs. It seems
that urethane foam board could be fashioned into interior shutters with
wallpaper, fabric or contact paper covering. Perhaps hinges, some sort
of foam weather stripping gasket and Velcro or magnetic cabinet latches
could be attached? Maybe a wood frame would be needed? Unfortunately,
I have difficulties receiving the Hot and Cold broadcast now that I live
in central Maine. I'm happy to see your column in the BDN.
Alan Majka
Hi Alan,
Window Quilts actually do a decent job, as do Duette shades. The side and
bottom seals are critical for condensation prevention.
Pop in foam shutters can do an excellent job. The limitation is where to
put them when they are not in use.
There are triple glazed high performance windows kicking around, but they
are pricey.
The Shelter Institute in Woolwich used to have a wide variety of DIY window
insulation materials available.
Tom
Monday, July 28, 2008
Insulating paint?
Hi Tom
Is there any truth to the rumor that you can get 40 miles to the gallon
on the wood pellet powered cars made in Detroit, Maine ?
but on the serious side; have you any experience with this company and
their product. Insulating Paint?
Chuck
Bangor, Maine
Hi Chuck,
No fooling around, the pellet car is coming!
They all laughed at Wilbur and his brother!
The real laughing matter is the ceramic sphere paints that will save you
heat.
In reality, the color of paint can have an impact on your home cooling load,
especially if you live in the south and your home is underinsulated.
Bottom line: it does not work.
Tom
Is there any truth to the rumor that you can get 40 miles to the gallon
on the wood pellet powered cars made in Detroit, Maine ?
but on the serious side; have you any experience with this company and
their product. Insulating Paint?
Chuck
Bangor, Maine
Hi Chuck,
No fooling around, the pellet car is coming!
They all laughed at Wilbur and his brother!
The real laughing matter is the ceramic sphere paints that will save you
heat.
In reality, the color of paint can have an impact on your home cooling load,
especially if you live in the south and your home is underinsulated.
Bottom line: it does not work.
Tom
New boiler
Dear Mr. Gocze/Prof Hill:
In May I traded in my old hot air furnace and electric hot water heater for
a new boiler.? I burned 900 gallons of #2 fuel oil last heating season,
plus paying big bucks for my hot water and thought it was time to save
some.? I anticipate that I will use 500-600 gallons over the next year for
both heat and hot water.? In fact, while I was worried that the oil water
would be more expensive than the electric water, my fuel tank has hardly
moved at all since it was filled the middle of May.
With this in mind, I was somewhat shocked to read in today's "By the
Numbers" column that Prof Hill's typical week would consume 10 gallons of
oil to heat the water.? While I don't have meters to track use, I have
noticed that my furnace runs for about 5 minutes to bring the hot water
tank back up to its 140 deg temp.? My wife and I estimated that it runs
approximately 5 times each day.? My boiler is rated at .85 GPH? which I
assume is fuel use.? Doing the math, this comes out to about 2.5 gallons of
fuel per week.? At $4.50 per gallon, this works out to be $11.25 per week
for hot water.
My last full month's electric bill before the conversion was $243.? The
first full month after the conversion was $112.? Looking at that last bill,
it comes out to 19.2 kwh per day now vs 38.3 kwh per day a year ago for
service during the month of May.? The only difference between the two was
hot water and the blower fan on the hot air furnace (which didn't run much
in May).
I hope my assumptions are correct, but I think I would have noticed a 80-90
gallon drop in my 275 gallon oil tank.
Thanks,
Doug
Orono
Hi Doug,
Sounds like you are in great shape!
Dick has five apartments in his home, so there is a lot more usage in his
home than in yours.
If you are not seeing any movement on the oil tank gauge, that is obviously
a good thing.
Would be good if you topped it off (Ugh!) before the heating season starts,
and then you would have an accurate sense as to the actual DHW use.
From all you are reporting, this sounds good.
Tom
In May I traded in my old hot air furnace and electric hot water heater for
a new boiler.? I burned 900 gallons of #2 fuel oil last heating season,
plus paying big bucks for my hot water and thought it was time to save
some.? I anticipate that I will use 500-600 gallons over the next year for
both heat and hot water.? In fact, while I was worried that the oil water
would be more expensive than the electric water, my fuel tank has hardly
moved at all since it was filled the middle of May.
With this in mind, I was somewhat shocked to read in today's "By the
Numbers" column that Prof Hill's typical week would consume 10 gallons of
oil to heat the water.? While I don't have meters to track use, I have
noticed that my furnace runs for about 5 minutes to bring the hot water
tank back up to its 140 deg temp.? My wife and I estimated that it runs
approximately 5 times each day.? My boiler is rated at .85 GPH? which I
assume is fuel use.? Doing the math, this comes out to about 2.5 gallons of
fuel per week.? At $4.50 per gallon, this works out to be $11.25 per week
for hot water.
My last full month's electric bill before the conversion was $243.? The
first full month after the conversion was $112.? Looking at that last bill,
it comes out to 19.2 kwh per day now vs 38.3 kwh per day a year ago for
service during the month of May.? The only difference between the two was
hot water and the blower fan on the hot air furnace (which didn't run much
in May).
I hope my assumptions are correct, but I think I would have noticed a 80-90
gallon drop in my 275 gallon oil tank.
Thanks,
Doug
Orono
Hi Doug,
Sounds like you are in great shape!
Dick has five apartments in his home, so there is a lot more usage in his
home than in yours.
If you are not seeing any movement on the oil tank gauge, that is obviously
a good thing.
Would be good if you topped it off (Ugh!) before the heating season starts,
and then you would have an accurate sense as to the actual DHW use.
From all you are reporting, this sounds good.
Tom
Thursday, July 10, 2008
Home insulation
Tom,
I read your artice n the Bangor Daily news and I am interested in doing
more to insulate my house this year. I was wondering you could answer a
few questions?
I have a 1500 sf ranch built in 1962. I blew 12'' of cellulose in the
attic a few years ago. The walls are 2x4 except for a new addition.I have looked at putting 2" foam on the outside. I would have to take all my siging off and windows out. Putting 2" of foam on the inside may be
easier because I would not be rushed by the weather. I can do one room at
a time. I am worred about condensation if I put foam on the inside of the
walls or if I stud up another wall on the inside.
The foundation is not insualted and escavation in not possible. The
basement is not finished nor heated. Floow is not insulated. I have a low
mass boiler in the basement but it is oversized I believe. The cellar does
not seem to be moist when we get a ton of rain I am dependant on my sump
pump.
Do you have a guide to home insulation or can you give me some
recommendations? Do you know of anyone that does the insulating? I use
about 1000 gallons of oil per year for heat and hot water.
Joe
Hi Joe,
You can install the foam on the inside. You just need to be certain to seal
the penetrations for electrical and openings. If any condensation does
form, it usually can dry to the exterior, but it is critical to try to seal
it well.
Studding up a new wall and insulating it with fiberglass is not near as
effective. If you want to stud it up and install the foam, that is okay,
too, as long as you seal it well.
Insulating the basement walls is a good idea on a house that is already
properly insulated.
You can usually save a couple hundred gallons in the average house.
I would suggest checking with friends and the phone book to get some
contractors. It is critical to check references.
Tom,
Tom,
I used to work for Penquis Cap and I will call them for a heat loss test.
I think it would be important to see how I stan right now.
Couple more questions. Please indulge. What type of foam is recommended
for the interior walls? Interior of foundation? What is the R value of the
foam? Do I need to insualte all the way down the foundation?
I was thinking of putting up 1.5 or 2 " of foam and then stud up new walls
with 2X3's in front of it with foam in the cavities (move the wiring since
it comes up thru the floor). It may be simpler to do 2x4 with 3.5 inches
of foam in the cavity.
Is this over kill and will I need to install a fresh air exchanger. I have
heard horror stories with people that have installed a poly vapor barrier
behind the sheetrock. Mold buildup and the tape falling off the drywall
because of moisture. I have also read articles that discourage insulating
the interior of foundations if the exterior is not insualted. Some claim
insualtion will keep the foundation colder in turn allow water to freeze
and expand causing cracks.
As a side note, I enjoy your columns,radio and tv shows. Many of my
undergrad classes were in environmental studies. Urban planning and
sustainable design systems. It is unbelievable to me that people have not
seen the writing on the wall for years. 5 dollar gas may hurt but it may
put us on the road to attempt to be sustainable.
Thanks,
Joe
Hi Joe,
You can use polystyrene foam or polyisocyanurate on the inside. The R value
should be at least R-14. More is better, especially insulating above grade.
I would consider insulating the entire wall, but the above grade area is
most critical.
You can also use spray foam, which is more expensive.
Your plan for studding up the wall in front of the foam is fine. Put
plastic on the wall first, then the foam and then the stud wall.
I don't think you need an air to air heat exchanger for insulating your
basement.
If the basement wall is in good shape, the likelihood of freezing damage is
minimal.
Just keep an eye on the exposed part of the exterior. There should not be
any catastrophic failures, but rather slow, small cracks that might show
up. These can be dealt with IF they occur.
Tom
I read your artice n the Bangor Daily news and I am interested in doing
more to insulate my house this year. I was wondering you could answer a
few questions?
I have a 1500 sf ranch built in 1962. I blew 12'' of cellulose in the
attic a few years ago. The walls are 2x4 except for a new addition.I have looked at putting 2" foam on the outside. I would have to take all my siging off and windows out. Putting 2" of foam on the inside may be
easier because I would not be rushed by the weather. I can do one room at
a time. I am worred about condensation if I put foam on the inside of the
walls or if I stud up another wall on the inside.
The foundation is not insualted and escavation in not possible. The
basement is not finished nor heated. Floow is not insulated. I have a low
mass boiler in the basement but it is oversized I believe. The cellar does
not seem to be moist when we get a ton of rain I am dependant on my sump
pump.
Do you have a guide to home insulation or can you give me some
recommendations? Do you know of anyone that does the insulating? I use
about 1000 gallons of oil per year for heat and hot water.
Joe
Hi Joe,
You can install the foam on the inside. You just need to be certain to seal
the penetrations for electrical and openings. If any condensation does
form, it usually can dry to the exterior, but it is critical to try to seal
it well.
Studding up a new wall and insulating it with fiberglass is not near as
effective. If you want to stud it up and install the foam, that is okay,
too, as long as you seal it well.
Insulating the basement walls is a good idea on a house that is already
properly insulated.
You can usually save a couple hundred gallons in the average house.
I would suggest checking with friends and the phone book to get some
contractors. It is critical to check references.
Tom,
Tom,
I used to work for Penquis Cap and I will call them for a heat loss test.
I think it would be important to see how I stan right now.
Couple more questions. Please indulge. What type of foam is recommended
for the interior walls? Interior of foundation? What is the R value of the
foam? Do I need to insualte all the way down the foundation?
I was thinking of putting up 1.5 or 2 " of foam and then stud up new walls
with 2X3's in front of it with foam in the cavities (move the wiring since
it comes up thru the floor). It may be simpler to do 2x4 with 3.5 inches
of foam in the cavity.
Is this over kill and will I need to install a fresh air exchanger. I have
heard horror stories with people that have installed a poly vapor barrier
behind the sheetrock. Mold buildup and the tape falling off the drywall
because of moisture. I have also read articles that discourage insulating
the interior of foundations if the exterior is not insualted. Some claim
insualtion will keep the foundation colder in turn allow water to freeze
and expand causing cracks.
As a side note, I enjoy your columns,radio and tv shows. Many of my
undergrad classes were in environmental studies. Urban planning and
sustainable design systems. It is unbelievable to me that people have not
seen the writing on the wall for years. 5 dollar gas may hurt but it may
put us on the road to attempt to be sustainable.
Thanks,
Joe
Hi Joe,
You can use polystyrene foam or polyisocyanurate on the inside. The R value
should be at least R-14. More is better, especially insulating above grade.
I would consider insulating the entire wall, but the above grade area is
most critical.
You can also use spray foam, which is more expensive.
Your plan for studding up the wall in front of the foam is fine. Put
plastic on the wall first, then the foam and then the stud wall.
I don't think you need an air to air heat exchanger for insulating your
basement.
If the basement wall is in good shape, the likelihood of freezing damage is
minimal.
Just keep an eye on the exposed part of the exterior. There should not be
any catastrophic failures, but rather slow, small cracks that might show
up. These can be dealt with IF they occur.
Tom
Log cabin walls
Tom,
I have been reading and enjoying the advice in your column along with
Professor Hill's remarks.
We live in a log cabin in Aroostook County, expanded and winterized in
2003. The original Ward Cabin (20 by 30 feet) has their short, camp grade
log walls. I have caulked every log joint on all but the south side. The
rest of the construction (basement living space and a two story el bringing
the total to a bit less than 1500 square feet) is stick built with 6 inch
insulation in the walls. Roof insulation is over 12 inches of fiberglass
with no room for more without blocking gable vents. Under the floors above
the crawl space, I added to the foil- backed reflective paper, bubble wrap
insulation with foil on both sides. Windows are Anderson low E, mostly
double hung, with one Anderson architectural and 3 Anderson awnings. Heat
is oil fired radiant in all floors, up and down. We also run an Ashley
wood heater in the living area whenever it is cold (less than 2 cords last
year). We have pretty consistently used about 550 gallons of oil per year
(temp set at 60 degrees all the time), before and after we moved in full
time
Questions:
1) Is there anything else I can do to the log walls, without radically
changing the inside or outside looks, to make some additional gain in heat
retention?
2) If we go away for 2 to 3 months in the winter and shut down the
furnace, how cold might our crawl space get without heat (Note that there
is very little concrete exposed above ground. Though we are set into a
hill, we have a northern exposure)?
3) In your July 5 column you said insulate with anything but "No bubble
wrap." Why?
4) Any additional suggestions for the situation I have described?
5) For a home with our square footage, what is the best fuel
consumption I could hope to achieve?
Thanks,
Michael
Hi Michael,
Log cabins are difficult. One way to bump up the insulation of log cabin
walls is to insulate on the inside and then cover with "V" match pine. That
loses the thermal mass which is of value. The ideal way is to cover the
outside with log siding, and foam, but that is an aesthetic compromise that
I would not want to make!
If you go away and leave the heat off, the crawl space won't freeze, but
there is a strong possibility of some condensation damage from moisture
condensing on the bottom side of the subfloor.
Bubble wrap is not a very effective insulation. When you consider its cost,
it is dreadfully expensive for the amount of insulation it affords you. For
years, most manufacturers have outright lied and tried to confuse people as
to the actual effectiveness of their products. Only recently have they
started to actually claim what the actual insulation value is. That
information is usually buried somewhere on their websites.
There are some places where it might be helpful, but generally it is too
expensive compared to other more traditional materials.
I think you might benefit from a home energy audit, to try to find those
areas that might simply be treated. One area that might be enhanced is the
crawlspace walls should be insulated. Also, cover the crawlspace floor with
plastic.
Tom
I have been reading and enjoying the advice in your column along with
Professor Hill's remarks.
We live in a log cabin in Aroostook County, expanded and winterized in
2003. The original Ward Cabin (20 by 30 feet) has their short, camp grade
log walls. I have caulked every log joint on all but the south side. The
rest of the construction (basement living space and a two story el bringing
the total to a bit less than 1500 square feet) is stick built with 6 inch
insulation in the walls. Roof insulation is over 12 inches of fiberglass
with no room for more without blocking gable vents. Under the floors above
the crawl space, I added to the foil- backed reflective paper, bubble wrap
insulation with foil on both sides. Windows are Anderson low E, mostly
double hung, with one Anderson architectural and 3 Anderson awnings. Heat
is oil fired radiant in all floors, up and down. We also run an Ashley
wood heater in the living area whenever it is cold (less than 2 cords last
year). We have pretty consistently used about 550 gallons of oil per year
(temp set at 60 degrees all the time), before and after we moved in full
time
Questions:
1) Is there anything else I can do to the log walls, without radically
changing the inside or outside looks, to make some additional gain in heat
retention?
2) If we go away for 2 to 3 months in the winter and shut down the
furnace, how cold might our crawl space get without heat (Note that there
is very little concrete exposed above ground. Though we are set into a
hill, we have a northern exposure)?
3) In your July 5 column you said insulate with anything but "No bubble
wrap." Why?
4) Any additional suggestions for the situation I have described?
5) For a home with our square footage, what is the best fuel
consumption I could hope to achieve?
Thanks,
Michael
Hi Michael,
Log cabins are difficult. One way to bump up the insulation of log cabin
walls is to insulate on the inside and then cover with "V" match pine. That
loses the thermal mass which is of value. The ideal way is to cover the
outside with log siding, and foam, but that is an aesthetic compromise that
I would not want to make!
If you go away and leave the heat off, the crawl space won't freeze, but
there is a strong possibility of some condensation damage from moisture
condensing on the bottom side of the subfloor.
Bubble wrap is not a very effective insulation. When you consider its cost,
it is dreadfully expensive for the amount of insulation it affords you. For
years, most manufacturers have outright lied and tried to confuse people as
to the actual effectiveness of their products. Only recently have they
started to actually claim what the actual insulation value is. That
information is usually buried somewhere on their websites.
There are some places where it might be helpful, but generally it is too
expensive compared to other more traditional materials.
I think you might benefit from a home energy audit, to try to find those
areas that might simply be treated. One area that might be enhanced is the
crawlspace walls should be insulated. Also, cover the crawlspace floor with
plastic.
Tom
Basement insulation
Tom
I have bare concrete walls right now so I would most likely go with 4 by 8
sheets of foam board.
Is moisture a problem if you use the foil covered foam 4 by 8 sheets? Also
what is recommended to seal the joints between the sheets?
I have been looking at putting additional insulation into my attic (it is
R-38 blown fiber glass). There is a lot of discussion of fiber glass vs
cellulose and cellulose on top of fiber glass to prevent loss of R-value
in the fiber glass. It is difficult to sort out the hype vs. facts on this
debate. What are your thoughts on this?
I do it myself with cellulose an additional R-76 for $1,100 vs. $550 for
just doubling it with another R-38. What is the typical percentage of heat
lost through the roof? and would it be worthwhile to go the extra to add
another R-76 for a total of R-114?
Thanks again
Rob
Hi Rob,
Foil faced insulation is fine. Caulk the joints after you install the foam.
I think a layer of cellulose is a good adjunct to a fiberglass insulated
attic.
The cellulose fibers are smaller and are blown in, so they cover the entire
attic thoroughly. It is a tighter job than fiberglass.
Wow, you are talking my kind of insulation values!
I think if you go up to R-74, you are in great shape. There will be very
minimal heat loss through this attic--as long as the attic hatch is sealed
well and all penetrations are also sealed.
Attic heat loss in a "typical" home at R-38 is usually about 15% of the
total heat loss.
All you energy auditors out there, please pardon this broad generalization.
Tom
I have bare concrete walls right now so I would most likely go with 4 by 8
sheets of foam board.
Is moisture a problem if you use the foil covered foam 4 by 8 sheets? Also
what is recommended to seal the joints between the sheets?
I have been looking at putting additional insulation into my attic (it is
R-38 blown fiber glass). There is a lot of discussion of fiber glass vs
cellulose and cellulose on top of fiber glass to prevent loss of R-value
in the fiber glass. It is difficult to sort out the hype vs. facts on this
debate. What are your thoughts on this?
I do it myself with cellulose an additional R-76 for $1,100 vs. $550 for
just doubling it with another R-38. What is the typical percentage of heat
lost through the roof? and would it be worthwhile to go the extra to add
another R-76 for a total of R-114?
Thanks again
Rob
Hi Rob,
Foil faced insulation is fine. Caulk the joints after you install the foam.
I think a layer of cellulose is a good adjunct to a fiberglass insulated
attic.
The cellulose fibers are smaller and are blown in, so they cover the entire
attic thoroughly. It is a tighter job than fiberglass.
Wow, you are talking my kind of insulation values!
I think if you go up to R-74, you are in great shape. There will be very
minimal heat loss through this attic--as long as the attic hatch is sealed
well and all penetrations are also sealed.
Attic heat loss in a "typical" home at R-38 is usually about 15% of the
total heat loss.
All you energy auditors out there, please pardon this broad generalization.
Tom
Insulation under siding
Tom,
I renently purcahsed a Home that was a foreclosure. The home is a large
( 3,000) sq ft. post and beam under construction. The shell has been
completed. The exterior sheathing is on, but no siding. The framing is
2 X 4 walls. there is no wiring , heating, etc.. in walls at this
point. My question is what would yo recommend for insulating the
exterior walls to obtain the proper "R" Factor.
Edwin
Hi Edwin,
I would recommend a minimum of R-30 for the walls. This can be done with
fiberglass in the walls and then 2" of polyisocyanurate foam over the
exterior, before the siding.
More is better, but this is my minimum.
Tom
I renently purcahsed a Home that was a foreclosure. The home is a large
( 3,000) sq ft. post and beam under construction. The shell has been
completed. The exterior sheathing is on, but no siding. The framing is
2 X 4 walls. there is no wiring , heating, etc.. in walls at this
point. My question is what would yo recommend for insulating the
exterior walls to obtain the proper "R" Factor.
Edwin
Hi Edwin,
I would recommend a minimum of R-30 for the walls. This can be done with
fiberglass in the walls and then 2" of polyisocyanurate foam over the
exterior, before the siding.
More is better, but this is my minimum.
Tom
Exterior spray foam
Mr. Gocze.
Years ago a well known carpet company in Bangor sprayed insulation on
the exterior walls of their brick building. Would it make sense to
spray foam on the exterior walls of the basement between the ground
and the bottom of the cedar shakes? It would be about two inches
thick if it were sprayed to be even with the shakes. It could then be
painted any color to complement the house.
Applying insulation to the interior of the basement walls seems to me
to be problematic, covering wires, electrical outlets, pipes etc;
even though it may be an effective way to insulate.
Thank you for your advise.
Dan in Bangor
Hi Dan,
That was the Salibas Carpet building down by the waterfront in Bangor. It
worked well.
There are issues, though. The foam needs to be protected from weather and
is susceptible
to physical damage.
When you insulate on the exterior of a basement wall, there are these
issues plus it creates a pathway for insects to come up into the wooden
part of the building.
Given the issues on the exterior, I prefer to use it on the interior.
Tom
Years ago a well known carpet company in Bangor sprayed insulation on
the exterior walls of their brick building. Would it make sense to
spray foam on the exterior walls of the basement between the ground
and the bottom of the cedar shakes? It would be about two inches
thick if it were sprayed to be even with the shakes. It could then be
painted any color to complement the house.
Applying insulation to the interior of the basement walls seems to me
to be problematic, covering wires, electrical outlets, pipes etc;
even though it may be an effective way to insulate.
Thank you for your advise.
Dan in Bangor
Hi Dan,
That was the Salibas Carpet building down by the waterfront in Bangor. It
worked well.
There are issues, though. The foam needs to be protected from weather and
is susceptible
to physical damage.
When you insulate on the exterior of a basement wall, there are these
issues plus it creates a pathway for insects to come up into the wooden
part of the building.
Given the issues on the exterior, I prefer to use it on the interior.
Tom
Temperature for empty house
Hello Tom
I have tried the radio show have not been able to get through. Hopefully
this can get a response and I will keep trying.
We own a part time home in Jackman. It is a full size house. We would
like to shut it down November to May, drain the pipes etc. I know that one
should not totally shut the heat down in a house with a foundation. We
would like to consider
redirecting some of the heat ducts directly into the basement for this time
and install a thermostat down there. What is the minimum tempetature we
could keep that basement? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank
you.
Jeff
Hi Jeff,
If you want to turn down the heat, install a low temperature thermostat on
the first floor, drain all the pipes and antifreeze the drains.
If you heat just the basement, you run the risk of condensation damage on
the floor.
Basements usually do not freeze, especially if you are keeping some low
level heat in the house.
Tom
I have tried the radio show have not been able to get through. Hopefully
this can get a response and I will keep trying.
We own a part time home in Jackman. It is a full size house. We would
like to shut it down November to May, drain the pipes etc. I know that one
should not totally shut the heat down in a house with a foundation. We
would like to consider
redirecting some of the heat ducts directly into the basement for this time
and install a thermostat down there. What is the minimum tempetature we
could keep that basement? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank
you.
Jeff
Hi Jeff,
If you want to turn down the heat, install a low temperature thermostat on
the first floor, drain all the pipes and antifreeze the drains.
If you heat just the basement, you run the risk of condensation damage on
the floor.
Basements usually do not freeze, especially if you are keeping some low
level heat in the house.
Tom
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Pellet stove suggestions
Hi, Tom;
Like many people today, I am interested in buying a pellet stove. I live
in a 950 sq. ft. 1994 mobile home, and I think I want a stove that can
be fully automatic, with a thermostat control that can be wall mounted.
Do you have specific suggestions for brands / reliability / size, and
how about for automatic-wall thermostat controlled vs. "on the stove
automatic heat output " controllers?
Thanks
Rick
Greenbush, ME.
Hi Rick,
We have used Harman, but there are other brands out there.
Be sure to confirm that a given make and model can be used in a mobile home.
There are some limitations, code and insurance-wise.
Tom
Like many people today, I am interested in buying a pellet stove. I live
in a 950 sq. ft. 1994 mobile home, and I think I want a stove that can
be fully automatic, with a thermostat control that can be wall mounted.
Do you have specific suggestions for brands / reliability / size, and
how about for automatic-wall thermostat controlled vs. "on the stove
automatic heat output " controllers?
Thanks
Rick
Greenbush, ME.
Hi Rick,
We have used Harman, but there are other brands out there.
Be sure to confirm that a given make and model can be used in a mobile home.
There are some limitations, code and insurance-wise.
Tom
Bio brick stove
Tom,
In your opinion would a pellet stove be more efficient that a bio
brick burning stove? Which would be less expensive to run?
Thank you so much.
Hi,
A pellet stove is less expensive to run. BioBricks are cool, but cost about
20-30% more than pellets.
The real beauty of pellets is the automatic control of the heat. You lose
that with a stick or brick burning device.
I am uncomfortable with the cost of the bricks, although they are nice and
dry.
Tom
In your opinion would a pellet stove be more efficient that a bio
brick burning stove? Which would be less expensive to run?
Thank you so much.
Hi,
A pellet stove is less expensive to run. BioBricks are cool, but cost about
20-30% more than pellets.
The real beauty of pellets is the automatic control of the heat. You lose
that with a stick or brick burning device.
I am uncomfortable with the cost of the bricks, although they are nice and
dry.
Tom
Heating souce pollution
Tom,
Lots of folks have been changing their heating source because of the
oil prices. My question is - which one
pollutes the most/least . . . oil, wood, wood pellets, gas, coal??
Sue
Hi,
Good question! Depends on which pollutant you are talking about. Wood is
probably the most polluting in terms of
particulates. In terms of greenhouse gas pollution, coal and oil are the
worst, with gas close.
The other question is: Who do we want to give our money to?
Tom
Lots of folks have been changing their heating source because of the
oil prices. My question is - which one
pollutes the most/least . . . oil, wood, wood pellets, gas, coal??
Sue
Hi,
Good question! Depends on which pollutant you are talking about. Wood is
probably the most polluting in terms of
particulates. In terms of greenhouse gas pollution, coal and oil are the
worst, with gas close.
The other question is: Who do we want to give our money to?
Tom
Home insulation tips
Hi Tom (and Dick),
Your tips in a recent column, Tom, advising homeowners to tighten up
against cold air infiltration and insulating
first, and improving the heating source second make sense. You may have
covered this before, but aside from
wrapping pipes, caulking around windows and doors, etc. but how about a
little more on a little more on adding
insulation to an existing house. Many homes built more than 20 years ago
have so-so insulation. How can a
homeowner add insulation to the attic, walls and cellar of an already
existing home? Does it make sense to strip off
wallboard and build out wall studs so thicker insulation can be added? If
so, which type -- fiberglass, rigid foam,
"pour-in," or a combination of these? Should a vapor barrier be placed on
the interior side of the insulation? OK to
add batts on top of existing attic insulation? If a budget doesn't permit
doing it all at once, which should be done
first?
Many thanks.
Elliott
Somesville
Hi Elliott,
I will be doing a column on this very soon. If this was a perfect world,
you should remove the siding and sheathing
and install 2" of foam. You would then re-sheath and reside, and move out
all the windows and doors to match up
with the thicker walls.
That might not work for 95% of the world, but if you are doing over the
exterior of the building, this is a great
project that will make a big impact on many homes!
Another alternative is to remove all the trim on the interior of a room's
exterior walls, add the 2" of foam, move all
the electric outlets and install new drywall. The downside of this process
is the places where interior partitions come
into an exterior wall. There would be a thermal "short circuit" at these
points, but you are still way ahead doing this.
I have to stop here, or I will have written the column. More to come.
Tom
Your tips in a recent column, Tom, advising homeowners to tighten up
against cold air infiltration and insulating
first, and improving the heating source second make sense. You may have
covered this before, but aside from
wrapping pipes, caulking around windows and doors, etc. but how about a
little more on a little more on adding
insulation to an existing house. Many homes built more than 20 years ago
have so-so insulation. How can a
homeowner add insulation to the attic, walls and cellar of an already
existing home? Does it make sense to strip off
wallboard and build out wall studs so thicker insulation can be added? If
so, which type -- fiberglass, rigid foam,
"pour-in," or a combination of these? Should a vapor barrier be placed on
the interior side of the insulation? OK to
add batts on top of existing attic insulation? If a budget doesn't permit
doing it all at once, which should be done
first?
Many thanks.
Elliott
Somesville
Hi Elliott,
I will be doing a column on this very soon. If this was a perfect world,
you should remove the siding and sheathing
and install 2" of foam. You would then re-sheath and reside, and move out
all the windows and doors to match up
with the thicker walls.
That might not work for 95% of the world, but if you are doing over the
exterior of the building, this is a great
project that will make a big impact on many homes!
Another alternative is to remove all the trim on the interior of a room's
exterior walls, add the 2" of foam, move all
the electric outlets and install new drywall. The downside of this process
is the places where interior partitions come
into an exterior wall. There would be a thermal "short circuit" at these
points, but you are still way ahead doing this.
I have to stop here, or I will have written the column. More to come.
Tom
Storing wood pellets
Hi Tom,
We have ordered 3 tons of Northern wood pellets arriving end of August. Is
that a good choice and is there a chance the pellets would not be good to
burn when we go to use them. should we go with only 1 ton at a time. We
have a dry place to keep them
Thank you
Hi,
I am a little nervous about storing pellets outdoors, even with the
wrapping that is doubled up on the pallets. If they are stored under cover,
out of the weather, in a dry place, you are in fine shape. They store very
well in these conditions.
Tom
We have ordered 3 tons of Northern wood pellets arriving end of August. Is
that a good choice and is there a chance the pellets would not be good to
burn when we go to use them. should we go with only 1 ton at a time. We
have a dry place to keep them
Thank you
Hi,
I am a little nervous about storing pellets outdoors, even with the
wrapping that is doubled up on the pallets. If they are stored under cover,
out of the weather, in a dry place, you are in fine shape. They store very
well in these conditions.
Tom
Cellar insulation
Dear Mr. Gocze,
I believe that I may have missed the article
that you suggested you were going to write regarding insulating basements
without causing an issue with mold and mildew. We insulated one area of
our basement last year with 3" aluminum coated styrofoam insulation. We
also taped all of the seams with aluminum tape. Since this area is a
storage area, we have not had it finished with sheet rock. In addition,
we insulated the sill with paper-backed fiberglass insulation, then applied
the same styrofoam insulation that was used to cover the walls and taped
the seam where it joined. We are concerned already that we may have issues
with mold and mildew! Could the way that we insulated this area have
created a problem? Your comments would be greatly appreciated before we
continue to insulate the rest of the basement.
Thank you.
Best regards,
Lisa
Hi,
Do you smell mildew? If not, probably you are on the right track. The
material you used is unlikely to cause an issue. This is the time that you
might have a problem given the humidity in the summer. The foam should be
right up against the wall, leaving no space for humid air to get up to it.
Spray foam is the ideal material for this application, but other materials
can work well, if you can seal off the masonry surfaces.
Tom
I believe that I may have missed the article
that you suggested you were going to write regarding insulating basements
without causing an issue with mold and mildew. We insulated one area of
our basement last year with 3" aluminum coated styrofoam insulation. We
also taped all of the seams with aluminum tape. Since this area is a
storage area, we have not had it finished with sheet rock. In addition,
we insulated the sill with paper-backed fiberglass insulation, then applied
the same styrofoam insulation that was used to cover the walls and taped
the seam where it joined. We are concerned already that we may have issues
with mold and mildew! Could the way that we insulated this area have
created a problem? Your comments would be greatly appreciated before we
continue to insulate the rest of the basement.
Thank you.
Best regards,
Lisa
Hi,
Do you smell mildew? If not, probably you are on the right track. The
material you used is unlikely to cause an issue. This is the time that you
might have a problem given the humidity in the summer. The foam should be
right up against the wall, leaving no space for humid air to get up to it.
Spray foam is the ideal material for this application, but other materials
can work well, if you can seal off the masonry surfaces.
Tom
Drafty cellar sills
Hi Tom -
I've got a question about cellars. My 1920-era house in Bangor has a
lot of dampness in the cellar. I would like to insulate around the
sills and exposed joists in the ceiling (above the stone and brick
foundation) where a lot of cold air can be felt coming in during the
winter. However, I'm afraid of sealing in moisture and causing
damage. Any suggestions on how to do the job properly?
Thanks -
Rick
Hi Rick,
Spray foam is one possibility. It is not susceptible to moisture problems
and seals extremely well. It is also expensive. An average home will likely
cost at least $1,000
and perhaps two or three times that.
On the other hand, you can figure on basement heat losses that are on the
order of 2-250 gallons for a 1500 square foot ranch house. At current oil
prices, this is a valid option.
Tom
I've got a question about cellars. My 1920-era house in Bangor has a
lot of dampness in the cellar. I would like to insulate around the
sills and exposed joists in the ceiling (above the stone and brick
foundation) where a lot of cold air can be felt coming in during the
winter. However, I'm afraid of sealing in moisture and causing
damage. Any suggestions on how to do the job properly?
Thanks -
Rick
Hi Rick,
Spray foam is one possibility. It is not susceptible to moisture problems
and seals extremely well. It is also expensive. An average home will likely
cost at least $1,000
and perhaps two or three times that.
On the other hand, you can figure on basement heat losses that are on the
order of 2-250 gallons for a 1500 square foot ranch house. At current oil
prices, this is a valid option.
Tom
Solar flat vs. vacuum tubes
Hi Tom,
NRT is installing solar water tubes in my new house in Steuben..We are starting to
put it all together and expect to pore the slab in a week or two.I called
my contractor friend about your article on flat tubes being the best for
domestic and he informed me NRT is not using the flat plates and he said
the round tubes are better.My question is since I am using solar water
tubes for both domestic & radiant floor heat are the flat plates still
superior to the vacuum tubes or does the duel use change the choice back to
vacuum tubes.My friend has been listening to you for years and says you are
well informed in solar etc. and that you might be designing or selling the
flat plate system in the near future.Is that true? Also when is your next
column?
Thank you.
Bobby
Hi,
Vacuum tubes work well. They are not as effective as flat plates for
domestic hot water systems.They are more efficient per NET square foot of
surface. The issue here is the black surface that actually intercepts the
sun. The fin inside a flat plate is a full sheet that mostly fills the
case. The vacuum tube has a fin inside each tube. And there are spaces
between the fins inside and the tube that contains it. And then there are
spaces in between the fins. The net area is a lot less on a vacuum tube
collector as opposed to a flat plate of the same surface area. The
additional efficiency of the vacuum tube does not compensate for this.
You need not take my word for it, check out this site: www.solar-rating.org/
Vacuum tubes look cool and cost more per square foot. Flat plates usually
produce about 20% more than tubes for a given gross surface area.
In your application, vacuum tubes will be a little bit better, but if I was
buying collectors, I would opt for flat plates.
Since you already own them, go for it. Install the tubes. Have realistic
expectations, though! Most solar installations will not yield the kind of
results for space heating that many people anticipate unless the heat load
of the building is fairly low.
Now for the real skinny on vacuum tubes: they are all produced overseas.
The reason they are being made instead of flat plates it that they are
easier to knock down and ship.
I used to be one of the biggest vacuum tube distributors in the US. We
stopped selling them because of breakage issues and cost.
They are not horrible, you should, however, know the facts!
Tom
NRT is installing solar water tubes in my new house in Steuben..We are starting to
put it all together and expect to pore the slab in a week or two.I called
my contractor friend about your article on flat tubes being the best for
domestic and he informed me NRT is not using the flat plates and he said
the round tubes are better.My question is since I am using solar water
tubes for both domestic & radiant floor heat are the flat plates still
superior to the vacuum tubes or does the duel use change the choice back to
vacuum tubes.My friend has been listening to you for years and says you are
well informed in solar etc. and that you might be designing or selling the
flat plate system in the near future.Is that true? Also when is your next
column?
Thank you.
Bobby
Hi,
Vacuum tubes work well. They are not as effective as flat plates for
domestic hot water systems.They are more efficient per NET square foot of
surface. The issue here is the black surface that actually intercepts the
sun. The fin inside a flat plate is a full sheet that mostly fills the
case. The vacuum tube has a fin inside each tube. And there are spaces
between the fins inside and the tube that contains it. And then there are
spaces in between the fins. The net area is a lot less on a vacuum tube
collector as opposed to a flat plate of the same surface area. The
additional efficiency of the vacuum tube does not compensate for this.
You need not take my word for it, check out this site: www.solar-rating.org/
Vacuum tubes look cool and cost more per square foot. Flat plates usually
produce about 20% more than tubes for a given gross surface area.
In your application, vacuum tubes will be a little bit better, but if I was
buying collectors, I would opt for flat plates.
Since you already own them, go for it. Install the tubes. Have realistic
expectations, though! Most solar installations will not yield the kind of
results for space heating that many people anticipate unless the heat load
of the building is fairly low.
Now for the real skinny on vacuum tubes: they are all produced overseas.
The reason they are being made instead of flat plates it that they are
easier to knock down and ship.
I used to be one of the biggest vacuum tube distributors in the US. We
stopped selling them because of breakage issues and cost.
They are not horrible, you should, however, know the facts!
Tom
Gas mileage
And another thing … I looked up some stuff on the internet …like the average
MPG of American cars, how many gal of gas are extracted from a barrel of oil
and how much of this gasoline goes into cars, how many cars are on the road,
the average mileage driven by each car holder .. then I looked up how much
more mileage the average car would get if every car in the US had its tires
pumped up to the required amount. . yadda yadda yadda … Then I made the
assumption the average tire in the American tire is 3 pounds/sq inch under
the recommended pressure (which I don't have the foggiest idea if this is
correct) …but if true I then did the simple arithmetic and computed that the
US could save about a half million barrels of oil a day just by filling up
their tires with the recommended air pressure.. This ½ million barrels of
oil a day is about 2.5% of the daily 20 barrels of oil a day currently used
in the US) .
It is my understanding is that amount of oil is what will be pumped from
offshore drilling.
I am thinking the moral is we just need a little more hot air .. but in our
tires and not from politicians.
Jerry
Hi Jerry,
You are right! The little things add up. They are not as sexy or as "gee
whiz",
but they add up and people are not always willing to pay attention to them.
Thanks,
Tom
MPG of American cars, how many gal of gas are extracted from a barrel of oil
and how much of this gasoline goes into cars, how many cars are on the road,
the average mileage driven by each car holder .. then I looked up how much
more mileage the average car would get if every car in the US had its tires
pumped up to the required amount. . yadda yadda yadda … Then I made the
assumption the average tire in the American tire is 3 pounds/sq inch under
the recommended pressure (which I don't have the foggiest idea if this is
correct) …but if true I then did the simple arithmetic and computed that the
US could save about a half million barrels of oil a day just by filling up
their tires with the recommended air pressure.. This ½ million barrels of
oil a day is about 2.5% of the daily 20 barrels of oil a day currently used
in the US) .
It is my understanding is that amount of oil is what will be pumped from
offshore drilling.
I am thinking the moral is we just need a little more hot air .. but in our
tires and not from politicians.
Jerry
Hi Jerry,
You are right! The little things add up. They are not as sexy or as "gee
whiz",
but they add up and people are not always willing to pay attention to them.
Thanks,
Tom
Compost heat
Hi Tom,
Maybe I am spending way too much time out in my garden but I had an idea.
What if there was some confined way to capture the heat in my compost pile
(which usually runs from 104 to 122 degrees F) to heat my home. There are
may ways to maintain the C:N ratio just by what you add to the pile. And
these items are all around us whether from the yard or kitchen. What do you
think? I have some great ideas. Let me know if you want to hear them.
Rpkatelin,
Bucksport, Maine
Hi,
That is a great idea. There was some work done on this in France a while
ago.
To heat your home, you would need a very big compost heap.
Your garden compost heap is hot because it is only losing a little heat to
the environment this time of year.
It has been done, but has to be extraordinarily large. The neighbors would
not like it.
Tom
Maybe I am spending way too much time out in my garden but I had an idea.
What if there was some confined way to capture the heat in my compost pile
(which usually runs from 104 to 122 degrees F) to heat my home. There are
may ways to maintain the C:N ratio just by what you add to the pile. And
these items are all around us whether from the yard or kitchen. What do you
think? I have some great ideas. Let me know if you want to hear them.
Rpkatelin,
Bucksport, Maine
Hi,
That is a great idea. There was some work done on this in France a while
ago.
To heat your home, you would need a very big compost heap.
Your garden compost heap is hot because it is only losing a little heat to
the environment this time of year.
It has been done, but has to be extraordinarily large. The neighbors would
not like it.
Tom
Basement insulation
Tom,
I own a 1,700 square foot cape that was built in 1999. I heat the house
from an unfinished basement primarily using a wood stove (I also have an oil
furnace with baseboard hot water as a secondary heat source). I am
considering insulating the basement walls to save money on fuel (wood and
oil). What I would like to know is with what type of insulation and
installation you would recommend for basement walls assuming that I will be
finishing the basement some day. Do you have a rough idea of insulating
material cost per square foot of basement wall?
I am also planning to put in a register this year to help circulate the heat
from the stove in the basement to the first floor. I plan to put one
register in above the wood stove (but not directly above because I have
small children who will likely throw items down the register) and one cold
air return grate in below my atrium door. Does this sound like a reasonable
way to get the heat to the living level of the house?
Thanks for the help.
Brian
Gray, Maine
Hi Brian,
Yes, insulate the basement! It will make a big difference in the amount of
fuel you use.
The ideal insulation is spray foam insulation on the basement walls. The
issue is the cost--it is about $1 per board foot. (that is one square foot,
one inch thick--you can do the math!)
The other issue is with the wood stove. If you are operating a wood stove
in the basement,
you should have the insulation covered with 1/2"drywall or 3/4" wood for
fire safety.
You can use fiberglass, if you are framing up the walls for later
finishing. You should install a sheet of plastic over the concrete wall
surfaces before framing the walls.
The ducts are great for moving heat, but are also a way that a fire in the
basement could involve the entire house very, very quickly. There are ducts
that have fusible links that would close the ducts in case of a fire. And
you should have a smoke alarm in the basement as well. (I know that is
inconvenient, but so is a house fire.
Tom
I own a 1,700 square foot cape that was built in 1999. I heat the house
from an unfinished basement primarily using a wood stove (I also have an oil
furnace with baseboard hot water as a secondary heat source). I am
considering insulating the basement walls to save money on fuel (wood and
oil). What I would like to know is with what type of insulation and
installation you would recommend for basement walls assuming that I will be
finishing the basement some day. Do you have a rough idea of insulating
material cost per square foot of basement wall?
I am also planning to put in a register this year to help circulate the heat
from the stove in the basement to the first floor. I plan to put one
register in above the wood stove (but not directly above because I have
small children who will likely throw items down the register) and one cold
air return grate in below my atrium door. Does this sound like a reasonable
way to get the heat to the living level of the house?
Thanks for the help.
Brian
Gray, Maine
Hi Brian,
Yes, insulate the basement! It will make a big difference in the amount of
fuel you use.
The ideal insulation is spray foam insulation on the basement walls. The
issue is the cost--it is about $1 per board foot. (that is one square foot,
one inch thick--you can do the math!)
The other issue is with the wood stove. If you are operating a wood stove
in the basement,
you should have the insulation covered with 1/2"drywall or 3/4" wood for
fire safety.
You can use fiberglass, if you are framing up the walls for later
finishing. You should install a sheet of plastic over the concrete wall
surfaces before framing the walls.
The ducts are great for moving heat, but are also a way that a fire in the
basement could involve the entire house very, very quickly. There are ducts
that have fusible links that would close the ducts in case of a fire. And
you should have a smoke alarm in the basement as well. (I know that is
inconvenient, but so is a house fire.
Tom
Blown insulation
Tom,
You may have covered these questions in a previous column that I
missed. If so, could you let me know where to look?
I'm from Hawai'i originally, so know very little about insulation. I
own a 140 yr old Cape in Eastport which has very little insulation,
judging from how little heat is retained in the winter. I cannot
afford to pull off the siding to insulate and am wondering about the
effectiveness of blown-in insulation. I also wonder if I should
insulate the inside of the basement walls where they extend above the
ground and the underside of the floors (I have an unfinished -
dirt-floor - basement where my furnace is).
I was told by the only contractor I've found in this area who does
blown-in foam that they will not do it unless either the siding or
sheet rock has been removed. Is that normal procedure? How effective
is ceeelulose blown-in and who is doing it in Eastern Maine?
Thank you for any help you can offer!
David
Hi Dave,
You can use blown in insulation. I like to use cellulose over fiberglass.
The fiber is smaller and the insulation value is slightly higher. It is
important to have a contractor who has experience and will warranty his
work.
That being said, the foam contractor will give you a product that is much
more effective, but if you are not opening the walls, you need to use blown
in material such as cellulose.
It is a simple process and is far superior to having nothing in the walls.
You can and should consider using the spray foam in the basement. And don't
forget to insulate the attic.
Good Luck,
Tom
You may have covered these questions in a previous column that I
missed. If so, could you let me know where to look?
I'm from Hawai'i originally, so know very little about insulation. I
own a 140 yr old Cape in Eastport which has very little insulation,
judging from how little heat is retained in the winter. I cannot
afford to pull off the siding to insulate and am wondering about the
effectiveness of blown-in insulation. I also wonder if I should
insulate the inside of the basement walls where they extend above the
ground and the underside of the floors (I have an unfinished -
dirt-floor - basement where my furnace is).
I was told by the only contractor I've found in this area who does
blown-in foam that they will not do it unless either the siding or
sheet rock has been removed. Is that normal procedure? How effective
is ceeelulose blown-in and who is doing it in Eastern Maine?
Thank you for any help you can offer!
David
Hi Dave,
You can use blown in insulation. I like to use cellulose over fiberglass.
The fiber is smaller and the insulation value is slightly higher. It is
important to have a contractor who has experience and will warranty his
work.
That being said, the foam contractor will give you a product that is much
more effective, but if you are not opening the walls, you need to use blown
in material such as cellulose.
It is a simple process and is far superior to having nothing in the walls.
You can and should consider using the spray foam in the basement. And don't
forget to insulate the attic.
Good Luck,
Tom
Ceiling insulation
Dear Tom Gocze,
I have read your article on ceiling insulation in the past weekend paper. I
do have ceiling insulation (fiberglass). It looks fairly filled in between
the joists. The ceiling area does have electrical wiring in some areas. My
questions are: Does it make sense to put in sheet insulation? what
thickness of insulation? I'd also want to apply some sort of walkways for
possible use?
Several years ago, I took your advice on getting a on demand hot water
heater. I have been very pleased with it too.
Thanks,
John
Brewer, Maine
Hi John,
I would blow in some cellulose insulation on top of the fiberglass if you
need to add more. There should be about 16 inches up there.
Where you want to cover the insulation, an inch of polyisocyanurate
(urethane) foam replaces about 2 inches of fiberglass or cellulose.
Tom
I have read your article on ceiling insulation in the past weekend paper. I
do have ceiling insulation (fiberglass). It looks fairly filled in between
the joists. The ceiling area does have electrical wiring in some areas. My
questions are: Does it make sense to put in sheet insulation? what
thickness of insulation? I'd also want to apply some sort of walkways for
possible use?
Several years ago, I took your advice on getting a on demand hot water
heater. I have been very pleased with it too.
Thanks,
John
Brewer, Maine
Hi John,
I would blow in some cellulose insulation on top of the fiberglass if you
need to add more. There should be about 16 inches up there.
Where you want to cover the insulation, an inch of polyisocyanurate
(urethane) foam replaces about 2 inches of fiberglass or cellulose.
Tom
Basement insulation
Tom,
I read your articles with great interest as being more efficient is always
the best way to go.
Your comments about basement insulation are interesting as I am considering
installing foam insulation in my home and am not sure about the best way to
go about (type, R-value, adhesive, distance below grade, etc.)
Any help on this one?
Thanks
Rob
Hi Rob,
You can use fiberglass, if there is a studded wall and a vapor barrier
against the concrete wall. Spray foam is the gold standard.
Whatever you do, R-19 or greater is the goal. The critical area to insulate
is the part of the wall that sees the outside air. The parts below ground
are slightly less critical.
Tom
I read your articles with great interest as being more efficient is always
the best way to go.
Your comments about basement insulation are interesting as I am considering
installing foam insulation in my home and am not sure about the best way to
go about (type, R-value, adhesive, distance below grade, etc.)
Any help on this one?
Thanks
Rob
Hi Rob,
You can use fiberglass, if there is a studded wall and a vapor barrier
against the concrete wall. Spray foam is the gold standard.
Whatever you do, R-19 or greater is the goal. The critical area to insulate
is the part of the wall that sees the outside air. The parts below ground
are slightly less critical.
Tom
Pellet stoves
Tom,
My daughter lives in Skowhegan in a 1988 modular, one level ranch
home, uses 800 gals. of oil yearly, and tried to purchase a HARMAN pellet
stove last week. NO LUCK! They seem to be back ordered until next SPRING!
UGH! Thus, she has put $200 down toward a LOPI PIONEER which hopefully will
be available the end of August. Question: is this a good or great or
terrible decision on her part??? Any hints concerning this particular stove
you might pass along??? We understand all the insulation hints you have
suggested. Everlastingly greatful for your assistance.
Hi,
The Lopi is a good stove. If it has a warranty (and I assume they do!), go
for it.
Tom
My daughter lives in Skowhegan in a 1988 modular, one level ranch
home, uses 800 gals. of oil yearly, and tried to purchase a HARMAN pellet
stove last week. NO LUCK! They seem to be back ordered until next SPRING!
UGH! Thus, she has put $200 down toward a LOPI PIONEER which hopefully will
be available the end of August. Question: is this a good or great or
terrible decision on her part??? Any hints concerning this particular stove
you might pass along??? We understand all the insulation hints you have
suggested. Everlastingly greatful for your assistance.
Hi,
The Lopi is a good stove. If it has a warranty (and I assume they do!), go
for it.
Tom
House Wrap Needed?
Hi Tom
I am building a new home and plan on using 2 x 8 studs for the walls, 1/2"
exterior sheathing then a layer of foil faced (both sides) thermax insulation and tape the seams, then siding. I am going to have the
walls spray foamed with 4" of insulation and then standard 1/2" sheet rock
interior walls. question is with how tight the walls will be with the spray
foam and the thermax insulation on the exterior will I still need to use
Typar house wrap before I install the siding.
Craig
Hi,
The house wrap is no necessary to protect the foam.
I might consider installing the foam before the sheathing, then installing
the sheathing over it with slightly longer fasteners. Then you have a full
nailing surface for siding.
In that case, you would use house wrap or tar paper to protect the
sheathing.
Tom
I am building a new home and plan on using 2 x 8 studs for the walls, 1/2"
exterior sheathing then a layer of foil faced (both sides) thermax insulation and tape the seams, then siding. I am going to have the
walls spray foamed with 4" of insulation and then standard 1/2" sheet rock
interior walls. question is with how tight the walls will be with the spray
foam and the thermax insulation on the exterior will I still need to use
Typar house wrap before I install the siding.
Craig
Hi,
The house wrap is no necessary to protect the foam.
I might consider installing the foam before the sheathing, then installing
the sheathing over it with slightly longer fasteners. Then you have a full
nailing surface for siding.
In that case, you would use house wrap or tar paper to protect the
sheathing.
Tom
Monday, July 7, 2008
Acadia heating and cooling system
Hi Tom,
I am looking hard at the new Acadia heating and cooling system as
shown on www.gotohallowell.com Have you any information on this system or
advice?
Jim
Hi Jim,
It looks good, especially if you want AC along with heat. Would be nice to
see a little more time under their belt. It is always nice to have the
luxury of time when dealing with a new technology. Of course, there is a
warranty that will cover you if the company is viable.
That being said, the coefficient of performance of the unit is claimed to
be about 3 to 1 over the heating season. With that information, the cost of
the actual heat is one half that of oil at $4.60 a gallon! That can then be
considered against the cost of the installation.
If the home in question uses 1,000 gallons of oil and oil is $4.60, then
the cost of heating for a year is $4,600. The operation of the Acadia will
cost about $2,300 to do the same thing. Energy savings would then pay for
the cost of the installation in less than four years, IF, we are talking
about a $10,000 installation cost.
There are a lot of numbers to consider here. It is important that the
hardware lasts at least five years to warrant this kind of investment. Such
an analysis assumes that fuel costs do not change. If oil goes down or
electric goes up, the payback gets longer.
If oil costs go up or electric goes down, the payback gets shorter.
The numbers help make a decision here.
Hope this helps.
Tom
I am looking hard at the new Acadia heating and cooling system as
shown on www.gotohallowell.com Have you any information on this system or
advice?
Jim
Hi Jim,
It looks good, especially if you want AC along with heat. Would be nice to
see a little more time under their belt. It is always nice to have the
luxury of time when dealing with a new technology. Of course, there is a
warranty that will cover you if the company is viable.
That being said, the coefficient of performance of the unit is claimed to
be about 3 to 1 over the heating season. With that information, the cost of
the actual heat is one half that of oil at $4.60 a gallon! That can then be
considered against the cost of the installation.
If the home in question uses 1,000 gallons of oil and oil is $4.60, then
the cost of heating for a year is $4,600. The operation of the Acadia will
cost about $2,300 to do the same thing. Energy savings would then pay for
the cost of the installation in less than four years, IF, we are talking
about a $10,000 installation cost.
There are a lot of numbers to consider here. It is important that the
hardware lasts at least five years to warrant this kind of investment. Such
an analysis assumes that fuel costs do not change. If oil goes down or
electric goes up, the payback gets longer.
If oil costs go up or electric goes down, the payback gets shorter.
The numbers help make a decision here.
Hope this helps.
Tom
Insulating basement walls
Tom,
How in the world do you attach insulation to your basement wall? No one I
ask seems to know. Is it something I can do myself?
Sylvia
Hi,
If you are trying to install foam insulation, it is very difficult to glue
it to the walls and do a good job. One exception is to have spray foam
installed on the basement walls. This sticks extremely well and does an
excellent job. It is also rather expensive.
An alternative is to put plastic over the walls, shoot nails through wood
strapping to hold strapping on the walls and then mechanically fasten the
foam with nails or screws.
It is very critical to seal any gaps between the walls and the foam.
You can also use plastic faced fiberglass insulation. Some lumber yards
have 4' wide material that can hang from the sill and cover the wall.
Another option is to install the plastic on the walls and then stud up a
conventional wood wall and install fiberglass in the stud cavities.
Tom
How in the world do you attach insulation to your basement wall? No one I
ask seems to know. Is it something I can do myself?
Sylvia
Hi,
If you are trying to install foam insulation, it is very difficult to glue
it to the walls and do a good job. One exception is to have spray foam
installed on the basement walls. This sticks extremely well and does an
excellent job. It is also rather expensive.
An alternative is to put plastic over the walls, shoot nails through wood
strapping to hold strapping on the walls and then mechanically fasten the
foam with nails or screws.
It is very critical to seal any gaps between the walls and the foam.
You can also use plastic faced fiberglass insulation. Some lumber yards
have 4' wide material that can hang from the sill and cover the wall.
Another option is to install the plastic on the walls and then stud up a
conventional wood wall and install fiberglass in the stud cavities.
Tom
Home insulation
Tom,
I read your artice n the Bangor Daily news and I am interested in doing
more to insulate my house this year. I was wondering you could answer a
few questions?
I have a 1500 sf ranch built in 1962. I blew 12'' of cellulose in the
attic a few years ago. The walls are 2x4 except for a new addition.
I have looked at putting 2" foam on the outside. I would have to take all
my siging off and windows out. Putting 2" of foam on the inside may be
easier because I would not be rushed by the weather. I can do one room at
a time. I am worred about condensation if I put foam on the inside of the
walls or if I stud up another wall on the inside.
The foundation is not insualted and escavation in not possible. The
basement is not finished nor heated. Floow is not insulated. I have a low
mass boiler in the basement but it is oversized I believe. The cellar does
not seem to be moist when we get a ton of rain I am dependant on my sump
pump.
Do you have a guide to home insulation or can you give me some
recommendations? Do you know of anyone that does the insulating? I use
about 1000 gallons of oil per year for heat and hot water.
Joe Grant
Hi Joe,
You can install the foam on the inside. You just need to be certain to seal
the penetrations for electrical and openings. If any condensation does
form, it usually can dry to the exterior, but it is critical to try to seal
it well.
Studding up a new wall and insulating it with fiberglass is not near as
effective. If you want to stud it up and install the foam, that is okay,
too, as long as you seal it well.
Insulating the basement walls is a good idea on a house that is already
properly insulated.
You can usually save a couple hundred gallons in the average house.
I would suggest checking with friends and the phone book to get some
contractors. It is critical to check references.
Tom
I read your artice n the Bangor Daily news and I am interested in doing
more to insulate my house this year. I was wondering you could answer a
few questions?
I have a 1500 sf ranch built in 1962. I blew 12'' of cellulose in the
attic a few years ago. The walls are 2x4 except for a new addition.
I have looked at putting 2" foam on the outside. I would have to take all
my siging off and windows out. Putting 2" of foam on the inside may be
easier because I would not be rushed by the weather. I can do one room at
a time. I am worred about condensation if I put foam on the inside of the
walls or if I stud up another wall on the inside.
The foundation is not insualted and escavation in not possible. The
basement is not finished nor heated. Floow is not insulated. I have a low
mass boiler in the basement but it is oversized I believe. The cellar does
not seem to be moist when we get a ton of rain I am dependant on my sump
pump.
Do you have a guide to home insulation or can you give me some
recommendations? Do you know of anyone that does the insulating? I use
about 1000 gallons of oil per year for heat and hot water.
Joe Grant
Hi Joe,
You can install the foam on the inside. You just need to be certain to seal
the penetrations for electrical and openings. If any condensation does
form, it usually can dry to the exterior, but it is critical to try to seal
it well.
Studding up a new wall and insulating it with fiberglass is not near as
effective. If you want to stud it up and install the foam, that is okay,
too, as long as you seal it well.
Insulating the basement walls is a good idea on a house that is already
properly insulated.
You can usually save a couple hundred gallons in the average house.
I would suggest checking with friends and the phone book to get some
contractors. It is critical to check references.
Tom
Insulating a modular home
Tom
I was amazed at how little employees of home improvement supply stores
new about proper amounts of insulation when I was preparing to add
insulation to our attic in our 4 year old modular. I could actually see
sheetrock when in the attic and all the rafters. I researched online and
found I should have at least R49. No one I spoke to could tell me that. I
ended up adding 32 bags of blown in insulation. My next project is to
insulate the crawl space, since I notice snow doesn't stay long near the
foundation. I can stand up under the house on one end and have to crawl on
the other end. It has pea stone over plastic on the ground. It always above
45 degrees. We have a computer controlled propane furnace underneath. I
think the info I'm reading says I should have R19 on the walls. Is this
correct? Is this 3" of styrofoam? Should it be foil faced? What is the best
way to attach it to the inside of the foundation? Thanks for any advise
you have.
Rick
Hi Rick,
If you are using Styrofoam, which is the blue insulation, it should be 4
inches. There are similar types of extruded polystyrene (which is what
Styrofoam is) from other manufacturers, which are pink, green and gray!
The foil faced foam (polyisocyanurate), which is yellow, should be 3 inches.
You are on the right track with R-19 minimum.
Tom
I was amazed at how little employees of home improvement supply stores
new about proper amounts of insulation when I was preparing to add
insulation to our attic in our 4 year old modular. I could actually see
sheetrock when in the attic and all the rafters. I researched online and
found I should have at least R49. No one I spoke to could tell me that. I
ended up adding 32 bags of blown in insulation. My next project is to
insulate the crawl space, since I notice snow doesn't stay long near the
foundation. I can stand up under the house on one end and have to crawl on
the other end. It has pea stone over plastic on the ground. It always above
45 degrees. We have a computer controlled propane furnace underneath. I
think the info I'm reading says I should have R19 on the walls. Is this
correct? Is this 3" of styrofoam? Should it be foil faced? What is the best
way to attach it to the inside of the foundation? Thanks for any advise
you have.
Rick
Hi Rick,
If you are using Styrofoam, which is the blue insulation, it should be 4
inches. There are similar types of extruded polystyrene (which is what
Styrofoam is) from other manufacturers, which are pink, green and gray!
The foil faced foam (polyisocyanurate), which is yellow, should be 3 inches.
You are on the right track with R-19 minimum.
Tom
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