Timed thermostat

Tom,
I am trying to convince a friend that installing a timed thermostat toreduce temperatures at night will save money. So far I'm unsuccessful ashe insists it takes more energy to warm up the house in the morning than you save during the turn down at night. Can you give me some info that might help my case?
Anton Larson

Hi Anton,
I believe that unless the house has some really odd heat lossc haracteristics, a setback thermostat will save energy. The longer the setback and the deeper the setback can be, the greater the savings.
Tom

Siding stains?

Tom,
Will a side vented Pellet Stove effect vinly siding with smoke stains? We are considering having a Pellet Stove installed in our Salt Box home, tovent past the peak of the roof would be very costly. So we thought of thedirect vent through the wall.
Thank you for the advice.
Dick in Hampden

Hi Dick,
I have done two sidewall vents and have about 4 years on the older installation, with no indication of staining. That is not to say that if the stove is not maintained, that it can produce sooting, but I think theyare pretty limited in their ability to do that.
Tom

Find an energy auditor

Dear Mr. Gocze,
I was interested in your article on heat savings in the Bangor Daily News dated July 5/6.
Can you recommend any energy auditors in Aroostook County?
Thank you,
John M. Stewart
Caribou, ME

Hi John,
You can get a list of them online at:
http://www.mainehousing.org/ENERGYAuditServices.aspx
Or, you can call Maine Housing at (800) 452-4668. They can give you a listing of folks in your area.
Tom

More insulation?

Dear Tom,
I heat my home with electricity, even though I have a FHA furnace. Of course, at some point, the energy prices may reverse and I will use oil
Two years ago, I installed two inches of insulating boards on the outside of my foundation walls, down to grade. This helps keep cold out of the cellar andI am wondering if I installed the two inch board on the inside of the wall, would I get further protections. I only use my FHA furnace to keep temperature above 40F in the cellar and that is usually when temperatures go down to 0F.
Doug Hatfield
Houlton, ME

Hi Doug,
Yes, I think adding the additional insulation would be a good project. You are in a good place, in that the basement is already cool and there is2" on the exterior. The payback will be a little longer, but this is a much neglected area of the home, insulation-wise.
I would also suggest looking at the attic to see if you are up to snuff there. There should be a minimum of 12" of something fluffy up there, like cellulose or fiberglass.More is better.
Of course, you should also tighten window and door weather stripping, but I suspect if you are heating with electric and have already been astute enough to do thebasement on the exterior, you have a pretty good sense of what is important.
Tom

Electric thermal heaters

Dear Tom,
I recently read your article on electric heat (BDNAug. 9/10) and was wondering if you would comment on eletric thermal heaters such as those put out by Edenpure or Comfort zone.
Thank-you
Kirby

Hi Kirby,
These are electric heaters, that function in a rather weird way that apparently allows them to use fancy, confusing prose to try to sell you avery expensive electric space heater.
Save your money and buy a more traditional electric heater for a small fraction of their cost!
Tom

Domestic hot water upgrade

Hi Tom,
I got a question I'm sure you've been asked a bunch. I currentlyhave an older Weil-Mclain boiler,with a domestic coil for hot water, whichhas been upgraded .I am considering an Amtrol boiler-mate installation @ acost of around $2k.It was recently suggested that I might considerinstalling one of the heat pump units that uses basement air and anelectric hot water tank in series .I haven't done any research on the heatpumps as of yet. What are your thoughts on the 2 systems? I understand theheat pump can be acquired for around $1k and i can get a elec. water heaterfor bout $150 from a neighbor.
Thank you.
Dale


Hi Dale,
You should be way ahead with the heat pump water heater. It will cost lessand will dehumdify the basement. Both heat pumps we have looked at havetheir place. The Nyle unitis simpler to install and would be easier to transfer to another waterheater when the time comes. I think the Airtap unit, which is lessexpensive, would be much harder to transfer to another heater.
Tom

Wet cellar

Hello Tom,
You were so prompt and helpful with my last questions that I should warnyou I could become a terrible pest.We have a small and very wet basement. Maybe 20x30 tops. My wife isinterested in humidex. I have seen mixed reviews online. I have also heardDick Hill talk about something called a smart vent. There seem to beothers out there The past fewweeks have of course, really brought this issue to the fore front. Do youhave any recommendations about any system that can affordably address thisproblem and anyone locally who carries the product-or is there any realsolution.
Thank you.
Jeff Wren

Hi Jeff,
The Humidex does not look bad. The Smart Vent (you need the one that is forventing air, not water!) looks like a great system. Another option is aheat pump water heater, which would dehumidify and make hot water in theprocess.
Tom

Pebble reactors

Tom,
How about the pros & cons about pebble reactors. I understand they aresafer than the ones currently in use and even new construction of nuclearfacilities will produce electricity at 4 cents a kilowatt about 1/3 thecost of oil/nat gas.
Thanks,
Richard Abbott
Hancock

Hi,
This is a great question for Dick Hill, but I think I can deal with it.As far as I am concerned, the genie is out of the bottle and we need to, atvery least,investigate and develop any technology that is safe and can more completelyutilize the vast amount of energy inherent in nuclear fuels. The morecompletely they can be used, the less toxic they become.We are already on this road and are falling behind the rest of the world,due to well intentioned, but myopic uninformed biases from the past.We need an objective overview of all alternatives but, alas, I do not thinkpoliticians are capable of doing this.
Tom

Frost Heaves and the Leaning Towers of Doom

Tom:
I am contemplating adding a small addition to my home - - a small rusticcape (approx 24'x32') with a standard poured cement wall foundation. Thesurrounding area is all ledge w/approx 2-3' of topsoil. I plan onbuilding the two-level addition (20 x 24') on a slab to be attached to theexisting foundation via a small entranceway. This would place the additionat ground level to access the existing driveway. In short, this soundslike a perilous adventure here in Maine. Is there any way to pour a slabaddition so that it will remain solid and stationary after a few harshwinters? I recall a program where Dr. Hill gave a good discussion offrost effects and how to avoid most common problems (since lost in my agingmemory bank). The Maine landscape is replete with many a 'leaning tower,'and additions that have since 'danced' away from their intended location.
Thanks!
Tim
Winterport, ME

Hi Tim,
You can get a copy of the paper that Dick wrote on frost heaves, bycontacting the Dean of Engineering's Office at UMO.To answer your question: I would remove the layer of topsoil, put down alayer of compacted crushed stone with good drainage, insulate and build ashallow frost protected slab.
Look over the paper. It covers all the basics. Also check in with somecontractors and see what they have to say. Ledge is usually stable. Theissue is to segregate the slab from the ledge, thermally, so the floor canstay comfortable without moisture issues.
Tom

Insulating dirt basement

Tom,
I live in a home with a dirt basement. Sections of the basement have beendug out to accommodate the old forced air furnace (now waiting to bedismantled), the new boiler and oil tank and two chimneys. There is stillone quarter of the basement that is still dirt up to about two feet fromthe house flooring. The basement is very wet, mostly due to the water thatflows in through the fieldstone wall at the front of the basement. I knowthat has to be dealt with, but for now I want to insulate the basementceiling/house floor. The floor joists are mostly cedar and no two are theexact same distance apart. What would be the best material to use that won't mind the wet and won't cause the flooring to rot?
S.
Hampden

Hi,
The best solution is to have spray foam installed over the floor and floorjoists. This will insulate the floor thoroughly and protect the structurefrom the moisture.The space should be well ventilated to try to dry it as much as possibleprior to encasing it in foam. The trapped moisture should eventuallymigrate up into the living space.
Tom

Winterizing

Tom,
What is the best material to use for a winter insulating skirtingaround a house that sits on a post foundation? Every year I see avariety of things used: plastic, bales of hay, bags of leaves,tarpaper, pieces of rigid foam insulation, boards. What is the bestmaterial for keeping the cold winter winds from blowing under thehouse, and what is the easiest to install? And what is the most mouse-proof?
Thanks.
M. Foucault
Cape Rosier

Hi,
The best thing to do, is insulate underneath the floor with foaminsulation. A minimum of R-25 is a good place to start. More is better. Youcan insulate in between the floor joists and then install full sheets offoam over bottom of the floor joists.If you do not fill the floor cavity with foam, leave the air space nearestthe upper area, nearest the living space. This is the only time a dead airspace actually does some good and is about an extra R-1 for each inch ofdepth.
This is preferable to insulating around the perimeter. If feel you mustinsulate the perimeter, you have to install a heavy piece of plastic on theground to minimize moisture in the sealed space.
Tom

More insulation

Dear sir,
I am insulating my house. What do you use to seal the junction between the cement basement and the wood house? There is about a 1.5-2 inch over hang .Foam has been suggested.For your info. I have brought the attic up to R50, and added 1,75 in foam to the basement and R 30 to basement ceiling.
RBH

Hi,
You can use latex acrylic caulk or canned foam to seal the crack between the two.
Tom

Attic insulation

Mr Gocze,
I have a question on insulation.I have 9 inches of loose insulation in my attic with no vapor barrierand would like to add more [ such as the type that can be blown in]Do I need a vapor barrier and where ?
Thank you.
Larry Lancaster
650 Main Road
Eddington, Maine

Hi Larry,
I would add another six inches minimum of cellulose insulation on top ofwhat is there.It is good to have a vapor barrier. The vapor barrier should be on the roomside of the ceiling.Since a vapor barrier is difficult to retrofit, a tight ceiling is the nextbest thing.The drywall should be sealed and any cracks should be caulked.A vapor barrier paint can be helpful to seal the ceiling also.
Tom

Coal insert stove

Tom,
I am interested in exploring a coal insert stove for my fireplace to supplement my oil heat this winter. What are ''must knows'' as Iinvestigate coalinserts? What do you like about coal inserts? What do you not like about coal inserts?Downeast Coal carries the inserts do you know of other dealers? Are there used inserts available?
Thank you,
Robby MacDonald
Bangor, Maine

Hi,
Inserts have a limitation in that they are in the fireplace, if you need to access the chimney and wish to clean it, you will be dragging the stove outof the fireplace.
I prefer a stove in the room, where there is more surface to emit heatdirectly into the room.
Coal is somewhat simpler to use and store and is a decent fuel. The ash hasheavy metals in it and should not be put on gardens. It is also a fossilfuel which contributes to climate issues.
In shopping for a unit, it would be nice to see one operating and/or have the opportunity to talk to a current owner.
Tom

Can we leave a house unheated this winter?

Dear Mr. Gocze,
My mother owns a 190-year-old New England style house that wasactually company housing during the lumber run in the 1800's inEllsworth. She can't live there anymore for health reasons and hasmoved in with my sister. Unfortunately, she can't afford the upkeepassociated with the house, let alone the massive heating bills thatwill likely come this winter. She'd like to sell the house, but giventhe slow market, we worry that it won't sell before winter. Myquestion is can we leave the house unheated this winter? And if so,what would we have to do to it before then?Many thanks,
Mark Messer
Ellsworth

Hi Mark,
I do not like to leave homes unheated, but this would be the winter that Iwould consider it!To prepare for leaving a house unheated, the water should be shut off atthe street and all the domestic water lines must be drained. Check with thewater company about removing the meter. The water heater should be drainedand all taps should be left opened. All drains, traps and toilets must befilled with RV antifreeze. It is not unwise to blow all the water lineswith air to push all remaining water out of them.
If the heating system is hydronic, it must be drained and the lines blownout with air also.
Be prepared to possibly find some damage to paint that is older from thecold. It might pop off the woodwork.
Monitor the building during the winter for any problems.
Tom

Indoor boilers

Tom,
I was wondering if you knew of any comparative analysis that has been doneon indoor wood fired boilers. I'm looking to tie a new wood fired boilerinto my existing oil fired baseboard/hot water system. I've located fouror five different manufacturers including Tarm and Greenwood but wonderedif there is something like a consumer reports analysis out there to helpguide the selection process?
John

Hi John,
There is none that I know of. You should check out Hearth.com. There areforums there that might help you along the way.I am a big fan of boiler designs that echo the work that Dick Hill and NormSmith did back in the '70's. Those types of boilers are the TARM, EKO andothers that call themselves "gasifiers". Unfortunately there are manyboilers that banty that word around.
I am very skeptical of boilers that are all refractory and do not rely onsome water storage.
Tom

Reflective insulation

Hello Tom,
The basement of our 1996 home is not insulated. We have radiant heatinstalled under our sub-floor and wood floors, with R 11 paper-facedinsulation between the stringers. Would a reflective product likeReflectix or Prodex be effective or do we need to simply add moreinsulation? Do we need to cover the stringers with the insulation orjust insulate between them?
Thanks,
Dick

Hi Dick,
I am not a big fan of reflective insulation products since they areexpensive for what little insulation they afford you (contrary to what theyclaim!)
The acid test for adequate insulation underneath radiant floors is how warmthe basement is. If it is warm, you need to add more insulation.
If this is the case, I would suggest another 3.5" of Miraflex fiberglassinsulation. Miraflex is a non-itchy version of fiberglass insulation thatis in a plastic sheathing. It would work well in this case and would go inbetween the floor joists. It does get itchy if you mess around with it fora while, but the plastic keeps the fibers away from you.
Tom

Coal burning stoves

Hi Tom,
Check out the latest in coal burning stoves here in maine. These will putpellet stoves to shame. Coal stoves have have greater burning times andoffer higher btu's per ton. I think your readers would like a comparisonstory. Check out a dealer in gouldsboro, downeast coal stoves. I have noconnection to them, I have been looking at a new stove and they have a greatsite and heating forum to get info on.
Thanks,
Mark P Legassey

Hi Mark,
It depends what you are comparing. I am familiar with the site and company.Coal is the least expensive fuel. It also is a fossil fuel and has ash thatis a little more of a disposal issue than woodash.What I like about pellets is the automatic feature. If you are at work allday, the system functions like a centralheating system, turning itself on and off with minimal user interface!If you want to deal with coal, that is fine. There is a little more usertime, but it is a fine fuel with some limitations.
There is no one answer for everyone. If there was, we would all be using it. I like spending my money with local Maine woods workers.
It is a free country and we can use whatever we wish. Best of luck with your choice!

Tom