Knotweed

Well for once I have an answer for you ! This is Farmer Bob fromBrooksville and I call you a few times a year for advice. But I wish therewas a way to get answers for my problems.On to the knotweed. 15 years ago we had a neighbor with a 1/2 acre of thestuff, and we fenced it in and put 2 pigs in there and after a few monthswe brought them home. Never a piece regrew. Gone forever. No chemicals oranything bad. But , they didn't kill the comfrey!Just for added knowledge. It really worked.
Bob

Hi Bob,
Good to hear from you.This is great advice!Only issue is--I ain't got no pig!
Tom

Wood heat and state barriers

Dear Tom
I was a student at UM0 in the seventies, was impacted by the possibleunavailability and very real price jump of oil and bought a little wood lotto secure my energy needs for the future. For several years my sons and Icould often be found there preparing inventory for the next heating season.At that time I read of Professor Hill's experiments with wood heat andbought a copy of his groundbreaking heating system and its associated howto build it and required materials list. I still have the package. As myhome heating system then and now is hot air, the conversion would be quiteinvolved and expensive, involving the addition of sweated copper plumbing,etc. The dream of the new heating system languished, oil prices dropped,and the project laid aside.Oil prices have reinvigorated my interest in the project and, now beingretired,I have more time than most to build and install this intriguingsystem and am pretty darned handy in building ability. But times havechanged. Upon talking with Bangor's fire code inspector, Maine State lawhas forbid home built heating systems, whether boiler or furnace. Further,the City of Bangor disallows outside boilers. I'm sure there are soundreasons for implementing these restrictions but they also outlaw one of themost well-documented and analysed heating systems in existence today.Although clean and thorough burning, extreme efficiency of conversion offuel to heat, kindness of burning emissions to those downwind, the baby gotpitched with the bathwater.Perhaps you might integrate some of this into one of your columns. I reallyenjoy them. Thanks for your attention.David Stevenspushawdave@verizon.net


Hi Dave,
That stinks!I agree, there are reasons to not encourage DIY wood systmes, but it seemscounter to our Yankee nature! Another hurdle is the insurance companies!
I will ruminate on this one.
Thanks,Tom

home basement exterior concrete wall insulation

Hi Tom,
When insulating the outside concrete wall at my home, should I use the Dowsuper tuff-r sheathering or the styrofoam light blue insulation? Also, doyou have a suggestion on which glue I should use?
Thanks, Harley


Hi,
Use Styrofoam, it will stand up better. It does need to be protected with acoating, but this does not need to be done immediately and only the abovegrade area needs to be covered.You can use construction adhesive to adhere it. Make sure it is compatiblewith Styrofoam.It usually will say so on the label.
Tom

driveway sealer

Hi Tom,
I recently did a driveway sealing job for a friend. I don't have asphaltso it is not a concern for me personally. After I bought and delivered thestuff, another friend told me "I heard you weren't supposed to do that."After the job was doneand looked OK, another friend told me the same thing-so what's the scoop ondriveway sealer? I enjoy doing odd jobs but don't want to waste people'stime and money and/or do harm. I'm sure the people who sell the stuffwould tell you to use it,then again, so do the people who sell septic system additives-and I knowthe answer to that one. Thanks.
jeff wren

Hi Jeff,
Driveway sealer is a good thing to do. The problem is when you go tore-pave, it needs to be removed and that is not easy.Sealer makes the driveway last longer, so it is a valid concept to use itas long as the driveway is in good condition.
Tom

Old Washers Suffer from mold, mildew

Tom,
While vacationing in Maine for 7 weeks, I saw your article about "oldwashers". Very glad I read it since the front-loaders are very expensive.Also, it made me think about my "research" in trying to find aclothes-washer manufacturer who still uses the lint filter "basket" thatsits on top of the agitator and water and lint flow into it from the top ofthe washer "tub". GE used to manufacture such a washer and I emailed themwith my questions as to why they stopped making that model but neverreceived an answer.The "new" style washers all supposedly "wash out" the lint into the drain-- but, oh, contrare -- try washing newly purchased towels and you'll findall the lint remains stuck to the sides of the wash tub and to thetowels!!!! I cannot understand the mentality of whoever decided that thiswould be a good idea -- instead of collecting the lint in the top of the"basket" and disposing of it in the trash. Must have been a design bysomeone who never did a load of wash.Anyway, my question to you is: do you know of any manufacturer whocontinues to make the above-described type of lint filter washing machine!Thanks much ----Pat Robb

Hi Pat,
I am not aware of anyone who does this, but this issue was not on my radar.There are after machine lint traps, that install in the drain plumbing,that are quite common and do an excellent job,probably a lot better than the in machine ones. I am sure you can find abunch of them on google.Lint can be a killer for septic fields.
Tom

Insulation

Dear Tom,
I am unable to get to my chimneys from the attic, as I am unable to get upthere myself. Can I use the spray foam insulation that comes in the cansto insulate my chimneys from the bottom up?I would be able to do it that way, but was unsure if it was safe to usethis product in this fashion. I use both oil and wood to heat with, ifthis makes a difference.My house was built in 1845 and I have had two new chimneys put in , butneither of them has the greatest of insulation surrounding them. Thechimneys are about 20 years old.Hopefully I have given you any and all of the infomation that you need toanswer my question. I have long wanted to do this, but was unsure if Ishould. Having you to ask is very nice.Thank you for any infomation you can give me. ctpomerleau@midmaine.com

Hi,
If you have a masonry chimney you can do this from below with foam.This does not meet code since you should maintain a 2" clearance tocombustibles.The reality is that this is not a big deal to me, but in the case of afire, this createsa possible pathway for heat movement to the combustibles around the chimney.Again, my feeling is that this is not a big issue, and I would insulatethis (as I have done in the past!). I would not do this with a metalchimney since a metal chimney is much less massive and less forgiving in aworst case scenario (a chimney fire).
Tom

Hot Water baseboard pipes

Tom:
I am pleased to see you were a man ahead of your times, I always knew it.The attached diagram shows where the previous owner ran the pipes to thehot water base boards in a wooden box. The box troth travels the exteriorof the family room in the basement of a raised ranch. This raises aquestion about the pipes that carry the hot water. In a normal house theyare in the wall, I suspect. Is that lost heat and would it be better toexpose the pipes more.In my design should I open the box to allow the heat to be used? Theprevious owner did not put any insulation around the pipes nor insulationagainst the outside stringer. Box is 12" X 7" using board lumber.What is the best way: insulate the pipes until they reach the baseboardsand allow the thermostat to control the zone or let the heat flow as itgoes?I have lived in the house 10 years and finally decided to examine the bestway to handle this issue.I have had a pellet stove on order but decided to put it off and seal thehouse. I thought it would be like putting a patch on a leaky raft. Oncesealed I will go for the stove if needed.Thank you for your time, keep up the much needed work
Bruce Boyd

Hi Bruce,
Good question. I think you would be better served to insulate the pipes.This way, you are controlling where the heat goes. You want the heat in theroom you are in, not to be going somewhere where you might not need it.That being said, you should use pipe insulation to cover the pipes and thenre-enclose them (if you want to). I would also see if I could install somerigid insulation against the wood framing that the pipes are near.
Tom

Buttoning down the roof

Tom,
We very much enjoy your Saturday morning show and are hoping you might beable tohelp us out with the following :We have a 50 year old frame camp near Grand Lake Stream, Maine. Recentlywe puta new roof & skylight on it. We did not vent the roof ridge or soffits,but are now thinkingabout finishing the interior of the roof with 1 by 6 inch tongue & grovepine. It is presentlyexposed 2 by 6 rafters. We have thought about putting in some type ofinsulation, but don'twant to create a condensation problem. We use and heat the camp about 2months eachwinter. Would I be creating a problem by insulating ?We also have a 5 year old log home in Grand Lake Stream and the roofshingles areheaving. It seems to be worse along the seams of the plywood sheathing.This problemis a little more complex than I can explain in a letter and we are askingif you do troubleshooting on site. We are very willing to pay for a visit.Any help or information you can give us will be greatly appreciated.
Thankyou.
John & Lisa Bertinelli

Hi,
If I were considering this type of project, I would have installed a layerof foam before installing new roofing.Since this is not the case in your situation, I would suggest installing6"(or more if possible) fiberglass in the joist cavity and then covering itwith a layer of at least 1" foam. Since the building is not used all yearlong, this ought to be adequate. If you think you might be using ityear-round later on, install 2" of foam. You can then install strapping onthe foam and then cover it with either sheetrock or new pine. All jointsmust be caulked and well-sealed. Ventilation is not necessary if this iswell sealed.
I appreciate the offer to do a site visit, but I cannot get away to do this.It sounds like there might be a moisture issue here. I would suggest havingan experienced home inspector, who might have an engineering background.
Tom

Backup heat

Tom,
I respect your opinions on heating solutions within the State, and wantedto run by my situation and feedback. I am in the process of adding on asubstantial addition to our existing home (log home, 970 sq. feet on slab)and am reworking our heating system (currently just a wood stove) as theaddition will have a walk-out basement with a total of 2400 sq. feet. I amconsidering a wood boiler for a heating source. I would like to haveradiant heat in all of the new locations (roughly 1200 square feet), andpipe back hot water baseboard in the old house as well as run domestic hotwater off the system. I was thinking about the low temperature for radiant(roughly 90 degrees) and the jump from that to domestic hot water andbaseboard (which I believe is around 120 or greater?). Would I be betteroff running a dual system? One for the winter and one for the summer? Or,would it make more sense to move away from a boiler and go to a tanklesssystem? Cost of wood is reasonable for me as I get it log length, etc.,but it does not make sense to put in a chimney, boiler and the cost of bothof those if I can maintain a heating system with an on-demand that runsmore efficiently…looking for thoughts, and wondered if you had time topoint me in some directions…Set-ups I was considering:Wood boiler with pellet boiler back-upWood boiler with an on-demand propane or electric tankless back-up and foroff season timesTankless system period, probably propane?Is Geothermal a reasonable option in Maine? I heard contradictoryinformation as to the feasibility in our climate. (I am located in Machias).Any of your thoughts would be very helpful, and I appreciate your time!
Thanks,
Corey

Hi Corey,
I like the concept of a stand alone wood boiler with a tankless backup.Pellet backup is nice, but it is expensive. You could use a unit like aRinnai Continuum for a backup system. Although it is a water heater, youcould interface it with your hydronic loops via a plate heat exchanger. Itis relatively inexpensive and would be a good backup for summertime hotwater. It is, of course, tied to LP gas prices, which are not low, but if ahigh percentage of your heat is coming from a wood stove/boiler, it mightbe a good fit.
Another alternative would be a cold climate heat pump hot water heatingsystem.Only problem is that they are not yet available. And they will cost a lotmore upfront than the Rinnai will.
Tom

Shutting it down

Tom,
One subject you haven't addressed is what those of us who flee to Florida for the winter should do with our homes. We can't use wood pellet stoves,nor many of your other energy saving suggestions. When we leave, we turnthe furnace thermostat down as low as we can. But last year, for example,our furnace used about 300 gallons of oil to heat the house minimally whilewe were gone for over five months. We intend to increase our atticinsulation this fall, but we are also considering turning the furnace offentirely and letting the house freeze up. What does this do to a realhouse, not a camp, with plasterboard walls and a basement? Some people sayletting your house freeze can crack the foundation. No doubt it would behard to drain all the water out of all the pipes and the boiler, somethingan plumber should be hired to do. What does freezing do to electronics? Tooriginal oil paintings? I've heard that even ballpoint pens can freeze andleak. It doesn't seem like a very attractive alternative, but on the otherhand, neither does paying well over a thousand dollars to heat your homewhen you aren't even here.How about draining the pipes but installing electric heat to keep the housejust above freezing? Or should we just bite the bullet and hope the oilprices go down somewhat eventually?If you do use parts of this letter in your column, please don't use ourname. We don't want to advertise the fact that our house is empty everywinter.
Thanks.
Dave & Helen Old Town, ME 04468

Hi,
I am not in favor of shutting the heat off entirely.It runs the risk of causing mildew issues and popping paint off of surfacesin addition to all the other more common freeze issues like heaving andcracking.
Foundations do not always crack, but obiviously there is more potential forthis problem.
I would suggest checking with your heating person about installing a freezealarm, adding insulation where you can and getting a lower temperaturethermostat.
The freeze alarm would alert the oil provider of an issue and get a serviceperson over there.I would not want to risk damaging valuable art and my home by leaving thehome with no heat.
Tom

Insulating concrete

Hello Tom,
My house is 24 x 40. I have been thinking of ways to help with the heatingbill this winter.One thing I aim to do, is to insulate the concrete foundation from theground up to the clapboards. This distance is about 18" with 5 cellarwindows, 14x24. I have seen people gluing insulation on the concrete andthe other day at Home Depot, I located 1 1/2" insulation with aluminum oneach side, 4x8' in size. The setback from the bottom clapboard is approx. 2".� Would you recommend doing it this way or doing the inside? I wouldneed to take a lot of things down in order to do it inside.��On theoutside I would intend to apply a gray mastic to keep the concrete look.
Harley I. Sproul, SR.Sproul's of Maine"Campfire Cookware "96 Enfield RoadLincoln, Maine 04457

Hi Harley,
It is preferable to install it on the inside, since there are no issueswith bugs sneaking in underneath it and it is protected from sunlight anddamage.If it is a big hassle to do inside, outside installation can be done. Youshould use styrofoam, cover it as you mentioned and install a metal dripedge as a barrier for bugs.
Tom

Timed thermostat

Tom,
I am trying to convince a friend that installing a timed thermostat toreduce temperatures at night will save money. So far I'm unsuccessful ashe insists it takes more energy to warm up the house in the morning than you save during the turn down at night. Can you give me some info that might help my case?
Anton Larson

Hi Anton,
I believe that unless the house has some really odd heat lossc haracteristics, a setback thermostat will save energy. The longer the setback and the deeper the setback can be, the greater the savings.
Tom

Siding stains?

Tom,
Will a side vented Pellet Stove effect vinly siding with smoke stains? We are considering having a Pellet Stove installed in our Salt Box home, tovent past the peak of the roof would be very costly. So we thought of thedirect vent through the wall.
Thank you for the advice.
Dick in Hampden

Hi Dick,
I have done two sidewall vents and have about 4 years on the older installation, with no indication of staining. That is not to say that if the stove is not maintained, that it can produce sooting, but I think theyare pretty limited in their ability to do that.
Tom

Find an energy auditor

Dear Mr. Gocze,
I was interested in your article on heat savings in the Bangor Daily News dated July 5/6.
Can you recommend any energy auditors in Aroostook County?
Thank you,
John M. Stewart
Caribou, ME

Hi John,
You can get a list of them online at:
http://www.mainehousing.org/ENERGYAuditServices.aspx
Or, you can call Maine Housing at (800) 452-4668. They can give you a listing of folks in your area.
Tom

More insulation?

Dear Tom,
I heat my home with electricity, even though I have a FHA furnace. Of course, at some point, the energy prices may reverse and I will use oil
Two years ago, I installed two inches of insulating boards on the outside of my foundation walls, down to grade. This helps keep cold out of the cellar andI am wondering if I installed the two inch board on the inside of the wall, would I get further protections. I only use my FHA furnace to keep temperature above 40F in the cellar and that is usually when temperatures go down to 0F.
Doug Hatfield
Houlton, ME

Hi Doug,
Yes, I think adding the additional insulation would be a good project. You are in a good place, in that the basement is already cool and there is2" on the exterior. The payback will be a little longer, but this is a much neglected area of the home, insulation-wise.
I would also suggest looking at the attic to see if you are up to snuff there. There should be a minimum of 12" of something fluffy up there, like cellulose or fiberglass.More is better.
Of course, you should also tighten window and door weather stripping, but I suspect if you are heating with electric and have already been astute enough to do thebasement on the exterior, you have a pretty good sense of what is important.
Tom

Electric thermal heaters

Dear Tom,
I recently read your article on electric heat (BDNAug. 9/10) and was wondering if you would comment on eletric thermal heaters such as those put out by Edenpure or Comfort zone.
Thank-you
Kirby

Hi Kirby,
These are electric heaters, that function in a rather weird way that apparently allows them to use fancy, confusing prose to try to sell you avery expensive electric space heater.
Save your money and buy a more traditional electric heater for a small fraction of their cost!
Tom

Domestic hot water upgrade

Hi Tom,
I got a question I'm sure you've been asked a bunch. I currentlyhave an older Weil-Mclain boiler,with a domestic coil for hot water, whichhas been upgraded .I am considering an Amtrol boiler-mate installation @ acost of around $2k.It was recently suggested that I might considerinstalling one of the heat pump units that uses basement air and anelectric hot water tank in series .I haven't done any research on the heatpumps as of yet. What are your thoughts on the 2 systems? I understand theheat pump can be acquired for around $1k and i can get a elec. water heaterfor bout $150 from a neighbor.
Thank you.
Dale


Hi Dale,
You should be way ahead with the heat pump water heater. It will cost lessand will dehumdify the basement. Both heat pumps we have looked at havetheir place. The Nyle unitis simpler to install and would be easier to transfer to another waterheater when the time comes. I think the Airtap unit, which is lessexpensive, would be much harder to transfer to another heater.
Tom

Wet cellar

Hello Tom,
You were so prompt and helpful with my last questions that I should warnyou I could become a terrible pest.We have a small and very wet basement. Maybe 20x30 tops. My wife isinterested in humidex. I have seen mixed reviews online. I have also heardDick Hill talk about something called a smart vent. There seem to beothers out there The past fewweeks have of course, really brought this issue to the fore front. Do youhave any recommendations about any system that can affordably address thisproblem and anyone locally who carries the product-or is there any realsolution.
Thank you.
Jeff Wren

Hi Jeff,
The Humidex does not look bad. The Smart Vent (you need the one that is forventing air, not water!) looks like a great system. Another option is aheat pump water heater, which would dehumidify and make hot water in theprocess.
Tom

Pebble reactors

Tom,
How about the pros & cons about pebble reactors. I understand they aresafer than the ones currently in use and even new construction of nuclearfacilities will produce electricity at 4 cents a kilowatt about 1/3 thecost of oil/nat gas.
Thanks,
Richard Abbott
Hancock

Hi,
This is a great question for Dick Hill, but I think I can deal with it.As far as I am concerned, the genie is out of the bottle and we need to, atvery least,investigate and develop any technology that is safe and can more completelyutilize the vast amount of energy inherent in nuclear fuels. The morecompletely they can be used, the less toxic they become.We are already on this road and are falling behind the rest of the world,due to well intentioned, but myopic uninformed biases from the past.We need an objective overview of all alternatives but, alas, I do not thinkpoliticians are capable of doing this.
Tom

Frost Heaves and the Leaning Towers of Doom

Tom:
I am contemplating adding a small addition to my home - - a small rusticcape (approx 24'x32') with a standard poured cement wall foundation. Thesurrounding area is all ledge w/approx 2-3' of topsoil. I plan onbuilding the two-level addition (20 x 24') on a slab to be attached to theexisting foundation via a small entranceway. This would place the additionat ground level to access the existing driveway. In short, this soundslike a perilous adventure here in Maine. Is there any way to pour a slabaddition so that it will remain solid and stationary after a few harshwinters? I recall a program where Dr. Hill gave a good discussion offrost effects and how to avoid most common problems (since lost in my agingmemory bank). The Maine landscape is replete with many a 'leaning tower,'and additions that have since 'danced' away from their intended location.
Thanks!
Tim
Winterport, ME

Hi Tim,
You can get a copy of the paper that Dick wrote on frost heaves, bycontacting the Dean of Engineering's Office at UMO.To answer your question: I would remove the layer of topsoil, put down alayer of compacted crushed stone with good drainage, insulate and build ashallow frost protected slab.
Look over the paper. It covers all the basics. Also check in with somecontractors and see what they have to say. Ledge is usually stable. Theissue is to segregate the slab from the ledge, thermally, so the floor canstay comfortable without moisture issues.
Tom

Insulating dirt basement

Tom,
I live in a home with a dirt basement. Sections of the basement have beendug out to accommodate the old forced air furnace (now waiting to bedismantled), the new boiler and oil tank and two chimneys. There is stillone quarter of the basement that is still dirt up to about two feet fromthe house flooring. The basement is very wet, mostly due to the water thatflows in through the fieldstone wall at the front of the basement. I knowthat has to be dealt with, but for now I want to insulate the basementceiling/house floor. The floor joists are mostly cedar and no two are theexact same distance apart. What would be the best material to use that won't mind the wet and won't cause the flooring to rot?
S.
Hampden

Hi,
The best solution is to have spray foam installed over the floor and floorjoists. This will insulate the floor thoroughly and protect the structurefrom the moisture.The space should be well ventilated to try to dry it as much as possibleprior to encasing it in foam. The trapped moisture should eventuallymigrate up into the living space.
Tom

Winterizing

Tom,
What is the best material to use for a winter insulating skirtingaround a house that sits on a post foundation? Every year I see avariety of things used: plastic, bales of hay, bags of leaves,tarpaper, pieces of rigid foam insulation, boards. What is the bestmaterial for keeping the cold winter winds from blowing under thehouse, and what is the easiest to install? And what is the most mouse-proof?
Thanks.
M. Foucault
Cape Rosier

Hi,
The best thing to do, is insulate underneath the floor with foaminsulation. A minimum of R-25 is a good place to start. More is better. Youcan insulate in between the floor joists and then install full sheets offoam over bottom of the floor joists.If you do not fill the floor cavity with foam, leave the air space nearestthe upper area, nearest the living space. This is the only time a dead airspace actually does some good and is about an extra R-1 for each inch ofdepth.
This is preferable to insulating around the perimeter. If feel you mustinsulate the perimeter, you have to install a heavy piece of plastic on theground to minimize moisture in the sealed space.
Tom

More insulation

Dear sir,
I am insulating my house. What do you use to seal the junction between the cement basement and the wood house? There is about a 1.5-2 inch over hang .Foam has been suggested.For your info. I have brought the attic up to R50, and added 1,75 in foam to the basement and R 30 to basement ceiling.
RBH

Hi,
You can use latex acrylic caulk or canned foam to seal the crack between the two.
Tom

Attic insulation

Mr Gocze,
I have a question on insulation.I have 9 inches of loose insulation in my attic with no vapor barrierand would like to add more [ such as the type that can be blown in]Do I need a vapor barrier and where ?
Thank you.
Larry Lancaster
650 Main Road
Eddington, Maine

Hi Larry,
I would add another six inches minimum of cellulose insulation on top ofwhat is there.It is good to have a vapor barrier. The vapor barrier should be on the roomside of the ceiling.Since a vapor barrier is difficult to retrofit, a tight ceiling is the nextbest thing.The drywall should be sealed and any cracks should be caulked.A vapor barrier paint can be helpful to seal the ceiling also.
Tom

Coal insert stove

Tom,
I am interested in exploring a coal insert stove for my fireplace to supplement my oil heat this winter. What are ''must knows'' as Iinvestigate coalinserts? What do you like about coal inserts? What do you not like about coal inserts?Downeast Coal carries the inserts do you know of other dealers? Are there used inserts available?
Thank you,
Robby MacDonald
Bangor, Maine

Hi,
Inserts have a limitation in that they are in the fireplace, if you need to access the chimney and wish to clean it, you will be dragging the stove outof the fireplace.
I prefer a stove in the room, where there is more surface to emit heatdirectly into the room.
Coal is somewhat simpler to use and store and is a decent fuel. The ash hasheavy metals in it and should not be put on gardens. It is also a fossilfuel which contributes to climate issues.
In shopping for a unit, it would be nice to see one operating and/or have the opportunity to talk to a current owner.
Tom

Can we leave a house unheated this winter?

Dear Mr. Gocze,
My mother owns a 190-year-old New England style house that wasactually company housing during the lumber run in the 1800's inEllsworth. She can't live there anymore for health reasons and hasmoved in with my sister. Unfortunately, she can't afford the upkeepassociated with the house, let alone the massive heating bills thatwill likely come this winter. She'd like to sell the house, but giventhe slow market, we worry that it won't sell before winter. Myquestion is can we leave the house unheated this winter? And if so,what would we have to do to it before then?Many thanks,
Mark Messer
Ellsworth

Hi Mark,
I do not like to leave homes unheated, but this would be the winter that Iwould consider it!To prepare for leaving a house unheated, the water should be shut off atthe street and all the domestic water lines must be drained. Check with thewater company about removing the meter. The water heater should be drainedand all taps should be left opened. All drains, traps and toilets must befilled with RV antifreeze. It is not unwise to blow all the water lineswith air to push all remaining water out of them.
If the heating system is hydronic, it must be drained and the lines blownout with air also.
Be prepared to possibly find some damage to paint that is older from thecold. It might pop off the woodwork.
Monitor the building during the winter for any problems.
Tom

Indoor boilers

Tom,
I was wondering if you knew of any comparative analysis that has been doneon indoor wood fired boilers. I'm looking to tie a new wood fired boilerinto my existing oil fired baseboard/hot water system. I've located fouror five different manufacturers including Tarm and Greenwood but wonderedif there is something like a consumer reports analysis out there to helpguide the selection process?
John

Hi John,
There is none that I know of. You should check out Hearth.com. There areforums there that might help you along the way.I am a big fan of boiler designs that echo the work that Dick Hill and NormSmith did back in the '70's. Those types of boilers are the TARM, EKO andothers that call themselves "gasifiers". Unfortunately there are manyboilers that banty that word around.
I am very skeptical of boilers that are all refractory and do not rely onsome water storage.
Tom

Reflective insulation

Hello Tom,
The basement of our 1996 home is not insulated. We have radiant heatinstalled under our sub-floor and wood floors, with R 11 paper-facedinsulation between the stringers. Would a reflective product likeReflectix or Prodex be effective or do we need to simply add moreinsulation? Do we need to cover the stringers with the insulation orjust insulate between them?
Thanks,
Dick

Hi Dick,
I am not a big fan of reflective insulation products since they areexpensive for what little insulation they afford you (contrary to what theyclaim!)
The acid test for adequate insulation underneath radiant floors is how warmthe basement is. If it is warm, you need to add more insulation.
If this is the case, I would suggest another 3.5" of Miraflex fiberglassinsulation. Miraflex is a non-itchy version of fiberglass insulation thatis in a plastic sheathing. It would work well in this case and would go inbetween the floor joists. It does get itchy if you mess around with it fora while, but the plastic keeps the fibers away from you.
Tom

Coal burning stoves

Hi Tom,
Check out the latest in coal burning stoves here in maine. These will putpellet stoves to shame. Coal stoves have have greater burning times andoffer higher btu's per ton. I think your readers would like a comparisonstory. Check out a dealer in gouldsboro, downeast coal stoves. I have noconnection to them, I have been looking at a new stove and they have a greatsite and heating forum to get info on.
Thanks,
Mark P Legassey

Hi Mark,
It depends what you are comparing. I am familiar with the site and company.Coal is the least expensive fuel. It also is a fossil fuel and has ash thatis a little more of a disposal issue than woodash.What I like about pellets is the automatic feature. If you are at work allday, the system functions like a centralheating system, turning itself on and off with minimal user interface!If you want to deal with coal, that is fine. There is a little more usertime, but it is a fine fuel with some limitations.
There is no one answer for everyone. If there was, we would all be using it. I like spending my money with local Maine woods workers.
It is a free country and we can use whatever we wish. Best of luck with your choice!

Tom

Insulating windows

Hi Tom,
Has anyone come up with a good solution to insulate windows on cloudy
days and long winter nights? Even with argon filled low e units, this
seems to be the greatest source of heat loss after insulating walls,
attic and basement. I was told by the distributor of very costly roll
up window quilts that they "are NOT an energy saving device", so
needless to say he was less than convincing at selling them to me. I
suspect condensation could become a problem with many designs. It seems
that urethane foam board could be fashioned into interior shutters with
wallpaper, fabric or contact paper covering. Perhaps hinges, some sort
of foam weather stripping gasket and Velcro or magnetic cabinet latches
could be attached? Maybe a wood frame would be needed? Unfortunately,
I have difficulties receiving the Hot and Cold broadcast now that I live
in central Maine. I'm happy to see your column in the BDN.
Alan Majka

Hi Alan,
Window Quilts actually do a decent job, as do Duette shades. The side and
bottom seals are critical for condensation prevention.
Pop in foam shutters can do an excellent job. The limitation is where to
put them when they are not in use.
There are triple glazed high performance windows kicking around, but they
are pricey.
The Shelter Institute in Woolwich used to have a wide variety of DIY window
insulation materials available.
Tom

Insulating paint?

Hi Tom
Is there any truth to the rumor that you can get 40 miles to the gallon
on the wood pellet powered cars made in Detroit, Maine ?
but on the serious side; have you any experience with this company and
their product. Insulating Paint?
Chuck
Bangor, Maine

Hi Chuck,
No fooling around, the pellet car is coming!
They all laughed at Wilbur and his brother!
The real laughing matter is the ceramic sphere paints that will save you
heat.
In reality, the color of paint can have an impact on your home cooling load,
especially if you live in the south and your home is underinsulated.
Bottom line: it does not work.
Tom

New boiler

Dear Mr. Gocze/Prof Hill:
In May I traded in my old hot air furnace and electric hot water heater for
a new boiler.? I burned 900 gallons of #2 fuel oil last heating season,
plus paying big bucks for my hot water and thought it was time to save
some.? I anticipate that I will use 500-600 gallons over the next year for
both heat and hot water.? In fact, while I was worried that the oil water
would be more expensive than the electric water, my fuel tank has hardly
moved at all since it was filled the middle of May.
With this in mind, I was somewhat shocked to read in today's "By the
Numbers" column that Prof Hill's typical week would consume 10 gallons of
oil to heat the water.? While I don't have meters to track use, I have
noticed that my furnace runs for about 5 minutes to bring the hot water
tank back up to its 140 deg temp.? My wife and I estimated that it runs
approximately 5 times each day.? My boiler is rated at .85 GPH? which I
assume is fuel use.? Doing the math, this comes out to about 2.5 gallons of
fuel per week.? At $4.50 per gallon, this works out to be $11.25 per week
for hot water.
My last full month's electric bill before the conversion was $243.? The
first full month after the conversion was $112.? Looking at that last bill,
it comes out to 19.2 kwh per day now vs 38.3 kwh per day a year ago for
service during the month of May.? The only difference between the two was
hot water and the blower fan on the hot air furnace (which didn't run much
in May).
I hope my assumptions are correct, but I think I would have noticed a 80-90
gallon drop in my 275 gallon oil tank.
Thanks,
Doug
Orono

Hi Doug,
Sounds like you are in great shape!
Dick has five apartments in his home, so there is a lot more usage in his
home than in yours.
If you are not seeing any movement on the oil tank gauge, that is obviously
a good thing.
Would be good if you topped it off (Ugh!) before the heating season starts,
and then you would have an accurate sense as to the actual DHW use.
From all you are reporting, this sounds good.
Tom

Home insulation

Tom,
I read your artice n the Bangor Daily news and I am interested in doing
more to insulate my house this year. I was wondering you could answer a
few questions?
I have a 1500 sf ranch built in 1962. I blew 12'' of cellulose in the
attic a few years ago. The walls are 2x4 except for a new addition.I have looked at putting 2" foam on the outside. I would have to take all my siging off and windows out. Putting 2" of foam on the inside may be
easier because I would not be rushed by the weather. I can do one room at
a time. I am worred about condensation if I put foam on the inside of the
walls or if I stud up another wall on the inside.
The foundation is not insualted and escavation in not possible. The
basement is not finished nor heated. Floow is not insulated. I have a low
mass boiler in the basement but it is oversized I believe. The cellar does
not seem to be moist when we get a ton of rain I am dependant on my sump
pump.
Do you have a guide to home insulation or can you give me some
recommendations? Do you know of anyone that does the insulating? I use
about 1000 gallons of oil per year for heat and hot water.
Joe

Hi Joe,
You can install the foam on the inside. You just need to be certain to seal
the penetrations for electrical and openings. If any condensation does
form, it usually can dry to the exterior, but it is critical to try to seal
it well.
Studding up a new wall and insulating it with fiberglass is not near as
effective. If you want to stud it up and install the foam, that is okay,
too, as long as you seal it well.
Insulating the basement walls is a good idea on a house that is already
properly insulated.
You can usually save a couple hundred gallons in the average house.
I would suggest checking with friends and the phone book to get some
contractors. It is critical to check references.
Tom,

Tom,
I used to work for Penquis Cap and I will call them for a heat loss test.
I think it would be important to see how I stan right now.
Couple more questions. Please indulge. What type of foam is recommended
for the interior walls? Interior of foundation? What is the R value of the
foam? Do I need to insualte all the way down the foundation?
I was thinking of putting up 1.5 or 2 " of foam and then stud up new walls
with 2X3's in front of it with foam in the cavities (move the wiring since
it comes up thru the floor). It may be simpler to do 2x4 with 3.5 inches
of foam in the cavity.
Is this over kill and will I need to install a fresh air exchanger. I have
heard horror stories with people that have installed a poly vapor barrier
behind the sheetrock. Mold buildup and the tape falling off the drywall
because of moisture. I have also read articles that discourage insulating
the interior of foundations if the exterior is not insualted. Some claim
insualtion will keep the foundation colder in turn allow water to freeze
and expand causing cracks.
As a side note, I enjoy your columns,radio and tv shows. Many of my
undergrad classes were in environmental studies. Urban planning and
sustainable design systems. It is unbelievable to me that people have not
seen the writing on the wall for years. 5 dollar gas may hurt but it may
put us on the road to attempt to be sustainable.
Thanks,
Joe

Hi Joe,
You can use polystyrene foam or polyisocyanurate on the inside. The R value
should be at least R-14. More is better, especially insulating above grade.
I would consider insulating the entire wall, but the above grade area is
most critical.
You can also use spray foam, which is more expensive.
Your plan for studding up the wall in front of the foam is fine. Put
plastic on the wall first, then the foam and then the stud wall.
I don't think you need an air to air heat exchanger for insulating your
basement.
If the basement wall is in good shape, the likelihood of freezing damage is
minimal.
Just keep an eye on the exposed part of the exterior. There should not be
any catastrophic failures, but rather slow, small cracks that might show
up. These can be dealt with IF they occur.
Tom

Log cabin walls

Tom,
I have been reading and enjoying the advice in your column along with
Professor Hill's remarks.
We live in a log cabin in Aroostook County, expanded and winterized in
2003. The original Ward Cabin (20 by 30 feet) has their short, camp grade
log walls. I have caulked every log joint on all but the south side. The
rest of the construction (basement living space and a two story el bringing
the total to a bit less than 1500 square feet) is stick built with 6 inch
insulation in the walls. Roof insulation is over 12 inches of fiberglass
with no room for more without blocking gable vents. Under the floors above
the crawl space, I added to the foil- backed reflective paper, bubble wrap
insulation with foil on both sides. Windows are Anderson low E, mostly
double hung, with one Anderson architectural and 3 Anderson awnings. Heat
is oil fired radiant in all floors, up and down. We also run an Ashley
wood heater in the living area whenever it is cold (less than 2 cords last
year). We have pretty consistently used about 550 gallons of oil per year
(temp set at 60 degrees all the time), before and after we moved in full
time
Questions:
1) Is there anything else I can do to the log walls, without radically
changing the inside or outside looks, to make some additional gain in heat
retention?
2) If we go away for 2 to 3 months in the winter and shut down the
furnace, how cold might our crawl space get without heat (Note that there
is very little concrete exposed above ground. Though we are set into a
hill, we have a northern exposure)?
3) In your July 5 column you said insulate with anything but "No bubble
wrap." Why?
4) Any additional suggestions for the situation I have described?
5) For a home with our square footage, what is the best fuel
consumption I could hope to achieve?
Thanks,
Michael

Hi Michael,
Log cabins are difficult. One way to bump up the insulation of log cabin
walls is to insulate on the inside and then cover with "V" match pine. That
loses the thermal mass which is of value. The ideal way is to cover the
outside with log siding, and foam, but that is an aesthetic compromise that
I would not want to make!
If you go away and leave the heat off, the crawl space won't freeze, but
there is a strong possibility of some condensation damage from moisture
condensing on the bottom side of the subfloor.
Bubble wrap is not a very effective insulation. When you consider its cost,
it is dreadfully expensive for the amount of insulation it affords you. For
years, most manufacturers have outright lied and tried to confuse people as
to the actual effectiveness of their products. Only recently have they
started to actually claim what the actual insulation value is. That
information is usually buried somewhere on their websites.
There are some places where it might be helpful, but generally it is too
expensive compared to other more traditional materials.
I think you might benefit from a home energy audit, to try to find those
areas that might simply be treated. One area that might be enhanced is the
crawlspace walls should be insulated. Also, cover the crawlspace floor with
plastic.
Tom

Basement insulation

Tom
I have bare concrete walls right now so I would most likely go with 4 by 8
sheets of foam board.
Is moisture a problem if you use the foil covered foam 4 by 8 sheets? Also
what is recommended to seal the joints between the sheets?
I have been looking at putting additional insulation into my attic (it is
R-38 blown fiber glass). There is a lot of discussion of fiber glass vs
cellulose and cellulose on top of fiber glass to prevent loss of R-value
in the fiber glass. It is difficult to sort out the hype vs. facts on this
debate. What are your thoughts on this?
I do it myself with cellulose an additional R-76 for $1,100 vs. $550 for
just doubling it with another R-38. What is the typical percentage of heat
lost through the roof? and would it be worthwhile to go the extra to add
another R-76 for a total of R-114?
Thanks again
Rob

Hi Rob,
Foil faced insulation is fine. Caulk the joints after you install the foam.
I think a layer of cellulose is a good adjunct to a fiberglass insulated
attic.
The cellulose fibers are smaller and are blown in, so they cover the entire
attic thoroughly. It is a tighter job than fiberglass.
Wow, you are talking my kind of insulation values!
I think if you go up to R-74, you are in great shape. There will be very
minimal heat loss through this attic--as long as the attic hatch is sealed
well and all penetrations are also sealed.
Attic heat loss in a "typical" home at R-38 is usually about 15% of the
total heat loss.
All you energy auditors out there, please pardon this broad generalization.
Tom

Insulation under siding

Tom,
I renently purcahsed a Home that was a foreclosure. The home is a large
( 3,000) sq ft. post and beam under construction. The shell has been
completed. The exterior sheathing is on, but no siding. The framing is
2 X 4 walls. there is no wiring , heating, etc.. in walls at this
point. My question is what would yo recommend for insulating the
exterior walls to obtain the proper "R" Factor.
Edwin

Hi Edwin,
I would recommend a minimum of R-30 for the walls. This can be done with
fiberglass in the walls and then 2" of polyisocyanurate foam over the
exterior, before the siding.
More is better, but this is my minimum.
Tom

Exterior spray foam

Mr. Gocze.
Years ago a well known carpet company in Bangor sprayed insulation on
the exterior walls of their brick building. Would it make sense to
spray foam on the exterior walls of the basement between the ground
and the bottom of the cedar shakes? It would be about two inches
thick if it were sprayed to be even with the shakes. It could then be
painted any color to complement the house.
Applying insulation to the interior of the basement walls seems to me
to be problematic, covering wires, electrical outlets, pipes etc;
even though it may be an effective way to insulate.
Thank you for your advise.
Dan in Bangor

Hi Dan,
That was the Salibas Carpet building down by the waterfront in Bangor. It
worked well.
There are issues, though. The foam needs to be protected from weather and
is susceptible
to physical damage.
When you insulate on the exterior of a basement wall, there are these
issues plus it creates a pathway for insects to come up into the wooden
part of the building.
Given the issues on the exterior, I prefer to use it on the interior.
Tom

Temperature for empty house

Hello Tom
I have tried the radio show have not been able to get through. Hopefully
this can get a response and I will keep trying.
We own a part time home in Jackman. It is a full size house. We would
like to shut it down November to May, drain the pipes etc. I know that one
should not totally shut the heat down in a house with a foundation. We
would like to consider
redirecting some of the heat ducts directly into the basement for this time
and install a thermostat down there. What is the minimum tempetature we
could keep that basement? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank
you.
Jeff

Hi Jeff,
If you want to turn down the heat, install a low temperature thermostat on
the first floor, drain all the pipes and antifreeze the drains.
If you heat just the basement, you run the risk of condensation damage on
the floor.
Basements usually do not freeze, especially if you are keeping some low
level heat in the house.
Tom

Pellet stove suggestions

Hi, Tom;
Like many people today, I am interested in buying a pellet stove. I live
in a 950 sq. ft. 1994 mobile home, and I think I want a stove that can
be fully automatic, with a thermostat control that can be wall mounted.
Do you have specific suggestions for brands / reliability / size, and
how about for automatic-wall thermostat controlled vs. "on the stove
automatic heat output " controllers?
Thanks
Rick
Greenbush, ME.

Hi Rick,
We have used Harman, but there are other brands out there.
Be sure to confirm that a given make and model can be used in a mobile home.
There are some limitations, code and insurance-wise.
Tom

Bio brick stove

Tom,
In your opinion would a pellet stove be more efficient that a bio
brick burning stove? Which would be less expensive to run?
Thank you so much.

Hi,
A pellet stove is less expensive to run. BioBricks are cool, but cost about
20-30% more than pellets.
The real beauty of pellets is the automatic control of the heat. You lose
that with a stick or brick burning device.
I am uncomfortable with the cost of the bricks, although they are nice and
dry.
Tom

Heating souce pollution

Tom,
Lots of folks have been changing their heating source because of the
oil prices. My question is - which one
pollutes the most/least . . . oil, wood, wood pellets, gas, coal??
Sue

Hi,
Good question! Depends on which pollutant you are talking about. Wood is
probably the most polluting in terms of
particulates. In terms of greenhouse gas pollution, coal and oil are the
worst, with gas close.
The other question is: Who do we want to give our money to?
Tom

Home insulation tips

Hi Tom (and Dick),
Your tips in a recent column, Tom, advising homeowners to tighten up
against cold air infiltration and insulating
first, and improving the heating source second make sense. You may have
covered this before, but aside from
wrapping pipes, caulking around windows and doors, etc. but how about a
little more on a little more on adding
insulation to an existing house. Many homes built more than 20 years ago
have so-so insulation. How can a
homeowner add insulation to the attic, walls and cellar of an already
existing home? Does it make sense to strip off
wallboard and build out wall studs so thicker insulation can be added? If
so, which type -- fiberglass, rigid foam,
"pour-in," or a combination of these? Should a vapor barrier be placed on
the interior side of the insulation? OK to
add batts on top of existing attic insulation? If a budget doesn't permit
doing it all at once, which should be done
first?
Many thanks.
Elliott
Somesville

Hi Elliott,
I will be doing a column on this very soon. If this was a perfect world,
you should remove the siding and sheathing
and install 2" of foam. You would then re-sheath and reside, and move out
all the windows and doors to match up
with the thicker walls.
That might not work for 95% of the world, but if you are doing over the
exterior of the building, this is a great
project that will make a big impact on many homes!
Another alternative is to remove all the trim on the interior of a room's
exterior walls, add the 2" of foam, move all
the electric outlets and install new drywall. The downside of this process
is the places where interior partitions come
into an exterior wall. There would be a thermal "short circuit" at these
points, but you are still way ahead doing this.
I have to stop here, or I will have written the column. More to come.
Tom

Storing wood pellets

Hi Tom,
We have ordered 3 tons of Northern wood pellets arriving end of August. Is
that a good choice and is there a chance the pellets would not be good to
burn when we go to use them. should we go with only 1 ton at a time. We
have a dry place to keep them
Thank you

Hi,
I am a little nervous about storing pellets outdoors, even with the
wrapping that is doubled up on the pallets. If they are stored under cover,
out of the weather, in a dry place, you are in fine shape. They store very
well in these conditions.
Tom

Cellar insulation

Dear Mr. Gocze,
I believe that I may have missed the article
that you suggested you were going to write regarding insulating basements
without causing an issue with mold and mildew. We insulated one area of
our basement last year with 3" aluminum coated styrofoam insulation. We
also taped all of the seams with aluminum tape. Since this area is a
storage area, we have not had it finished with sheet rock. In addition,
we insulated the sill with paper-backed fiberglass insulation, then applied
the same styrofoam insulation that was used to cover the walls and taped
the seam where it joined. We are concerned already that we may have issues
with mold and mildew! Could the way that we insulated this area have
created a problem? Your comments would be greatly appreciated before we
continue to insulate the rest of the basement.
Thank you.
Best regards,
Lisa

Hi,
Do you smell mildew? If not, probably you are on the right track. The
material you used is unlikely to cause an issue. This is the time that you
might have a problem given the humidity in the summer. The foam should be
right up against the wall, leaving no space for humid air to get up to it.
Spray foam is the ideal material for this application, but other materials
can work well, if you can seal off the masonry surfaces.
Tom

Drafty cellar sills

Hi Tom -
I've got a question about cellars. My 1920-era house in Bangor has a
lot of dampness in the cellar. I would like to insulate around the
sills and exposed joists in the ceiling (above the stone and brick
foundation) where a lot of cold air can be felt coming in during the
winter. However, I'm afraid of sealing in moisture and causing
damage. Any suggestions on how to do the job properly?
Thanks -
Rick

Hi Rick,
Spray foam is one possibility. It is not susceptible to moisture problems
and seals extremely well. It is also expensive. An average home will likely
cost at least $1,000
and perhaps two or three times that.
On the other hand, you can figure on basement heat losses that are on the
order of 2-250 gallons for a 1500 square foot ranch house. At current oil
prices, this is a valid option.
Tom

Solar flat vs. vacuum tubes

Hi Tom,
NRT is installing solar water tubes in my new house in Steuben..We are starting to
put it all together and expect to pore the slab in a week or two.I called
my contractor friend about your article on flat tubes being the best for
domestic and he informed me NRT is not using the flat plates and he said
the round tubes are better.My question is since I am using solar water
tubes for both domestic & radiant floor heat are the flat plates still
superior to the vacuum tubes or does the duel use change the choice back to
vacuum tubes.My friend has been listening to you for years and says you are
well informed in solar etc. and that you might be designing or selling the
flat plate system in the near future.Is that true? Also when is your next
column?
Thank you.
Bobby

Hi,
Vacuum tubes work well. They are not as effective as flat plates for
domestic hot water systems.They are more efficient per NET square foot of
surface. The issue here is the black surface that actually intercepts the
sun. The fin inside a flat plate is a full sheet that mostly fills the
case. The vacuum tube has a fin inside each tube. And there are spaces
between the fins inside and the tube that contains it. And then there are
spaces in between the fins. The net area is a lot less on a vacuum tube
collector as opposed to a flat plate of the same surface area. The
additional efficiency of the vacuum tube does not compensate for this.
You need not take my word for it, check out this site: www.solar-rating.org/
Vacuum tubes look cool and cost more per square foot. Flat plates usually
produce about 20% more than tubes for a given gross surface area.
In your application, vacuum tubes will be a little bit better, but if I was
buying collectors, I would opt for flat plates.
Since you already own them, go for it. Install the tubes. Have realistic
expectations, though! Most solar installations will not yield the kind of
results for space heating that many people anticipate unless the heat load
of the building is fairly low.
Now for the real skinny on vacuum tubes: they are all produced overseas.
The reason they are being made instead of flat plates it that they are
easier to knock down and ship.
I used to be one of the biggest vacuum tube distributors in the US. We
stopped selling them because of breakage issues and cost.
They are not horrible, you should, however, know the facts!
Tom

Gas mileage

And another thing … I looked up some stuff on the internet …like the average
MPG of American cars, how many gal of gas are extracted from a barrel of oil
and how much of this gasoline goes into cars, how many cars are on the road,
the average mileage driven by each car holder .. then I looked up how much
more mileage the average car would get if every car in the US had its tires
pumped up to the required amount. . yadda yadda yadda … Then I made the
assumption the average tire in the American tire is 3 pounds/sq inch under
the recommended pressure (which I don't have the foggiest idea if this is
correct) …but if true I then did the simple arithmetic and computed that the
US could save about a half million barrels of oil a day just by filling up
their tires with the recommended air pressure.. This ½ million barrels of
oil a day is about 2.5% of the daily 20 barrels of oil a day currently used
in the US) .
It is my understanding is that amount of oil is what will be pumped from
offshore drilling.
I am thinking the moral is we just need a little more hot air .. but in our
tires and not from politicians.
Jerry

Hi Jerry,
You are right! The little things add up. They are not as sexy or as "gee
whiz",
but they add up and people are not always willing to pay attention to them.
Thanks,
Tom

Compost heat

Hi Tom,
Maybe I am spending way too much time out in my garden but I had an idea.
What if there was some confined way to capture the heat in my compost pile
(which usually runs from 104 to 122 degrees F) to heat my home. There are
may ways to maintain the C:N ratio just by what you add to the pile. And
these items are all around us whether from the yard or kitchen. What do you
think? I have some great ideas. Let me know if you want to hear them.
Rpkatelin,
Bucksport, Maine

Hi,
That is a great idea. There was some work done on this in France a while
ago.
To heat your home, you would need a very big compost heap.
Your garden compost heap is hot because it is only losing a little heat to
the environment this time of year.
It has been done, but has to be extraordinarily large. The neighbors would
not like it.
Tom

Basement insulation

Tom,
I own a 1,700 square foot cape that was built in 1999. I heat the house
from an unfinished basement primarily using a wood stove (I also have an oil
furnace with baseboard hot water as a secondary heat source). I am
considering insulating the basement walls to save money on fuel (wood and
oil). What I would like to know is with what type of insulation and
installation you would recommend for basement walls assuming that I will be
finishing the basement some day. Do you have a rough idea of insulating
material cost per square foot of basement wall?
I am also planning to put in a register this year to help circulate the heat
from the stove in the basement to the first floor. I plan to put one
register in above the wood stove (but not directly above because I have
small children who will likely throw items down the register) and one cold
air return grate in below my atrium door. Does this sound like a reasonable
way to get the heat to the living level of the house?
Thanks for the help.
Brian
Gray, Maine

Hi Brian,
Yes, insulate the basement! It will make a big difference in the amount of
fuel you use.
The ideal insulation is spray foam insulation on the basement walls. The
issue is the cost--it is about $1 per board foot. (that is one square foot,
one inch thick--you can do the math!)
The other issue is with the wood stove. If you are operating a wood stove
in the basement,
you should have the insulation covered with 1/2"drywall or 3/4" wood for
fire safety.
You can use fiberglass, if you are framing up the walls for later
finishing. You should install a sheet of plastic over the concrete wall
surfaces before framing the walls.
The ducts are great for moving heat, but are also a way that a fire in the
basement could involve the entire house very, very quickly. There are ducts
that have fusible links that would close the ducts in case of a fire. And
you should have a smoke alarm in the basement as well. (I know that is
inconvenient, but so is a house fire.
Tom