Knotweed

Well for once I have an answer for you ! This is Farmer Bob fromBrooksville and I call you a few times a year for advice. But I wish therewas a way to get answers for my problems.On to the knotweed. 15 years ago we had a neighbor with a 1/2 acre of thestuff, and we fenced it in and put 2 pigs in there and after a few monthswe brought them home. Never a piece regrew. Gone forever. No chemicals oranything bad. But , they didn't kill the comfrey!Just for added knowledge. It really worked.
Bob

Hi Bob,
Good to hear from you.This is great advice!Only issue is--I ain't got no pig!
Tom

Wood heat and state barriers

Dear Tom
I was a student at UM0 in the seventies, was impacted by the possibleunavailability and very real price jump of oil and bought a little wood lotto secure my energy needs for the future. For several years my sons and Icould often be found there preparing inventory for the next heating season.At that time I read of Professor Hill's experiments with wood heat andbought a copy of his groundbreaking heating system and its associated howto build it and required materials list. I still have the package. As myhome heating system then and now is hot air, the conversion would be quiteinvolved and expensive, involving the addition of sweated copper plumbing,etc. The dream of the new heating system languished, oil prices dropped,and the project laid aside.Oil prices have reinvigorated my interest in the project and, now beingretired,I have more time than most to build and install this intriguingsystem and am pretty darned handy in building ability. But times havechanged. Upon talking with Bangor's fire code inspector, Maine State lawhas forbid home built heating systems, whether boiler or furnace. Further,the City of Bangor disallows outside boilers. I'm sure there are soundreasons for implementing these restrictions but they also outlaw one of themost well-documented and analysed heating systems in existence today.Although clean and thorough burning, extreme efficiency of conversion offuel to heat, kindness of burning emissions to those downwind, the baby gotpitched with the bathwater.Perhaps you might integrate some of this into one of your columns. I reallyenjoy them. Thanks for your attention.David Stevenspushawdave@verizon.net


Hi Dave,
That stinks!I agree, there are reasons to not encourage DIY wood systmes, but it seemscounter to our Yankee nature! Another hurdle is the insurance companies!
I will ruminate on this one.
Thanks,Tom

home basement exterior concrete wall insulation

Hi Tom,
When insulating the outside concrete wall at my home, should I use the Dowsuper tuff-r sheathering or the styrofoam light blue insulation? Also, doyou have a suggestion on which glue I should use?
Thanks, Harley


Hi,
Use Styrofoam, it will stand up better. It does need to be protected with acoating, but this does not need to be done immediately and only the abovegrade area needs to be covered.You can use construction adhesive to adhere it. Make sure it is compatiblewith Styrofoam.It usually will say so on the label.
Tom

driveway sealer

Hi Tom,
I recently did a driveway sealing job for a friend. I don't have asphaltso it is not a concern for me personally. After I bought and delivered thestuff, another friend told me "I heard you weren't supposed to do that."After the job was doneand looked OK, another friend told me the same thing-so what's the scoop ondriveway sealer? I enjoy doing odd jobs but don't want to waste people'stime and money and/or do harm. I'm sure the people who sell the stuffwould tell you to use it,then again, so do the people who sell septic system additives-and I knowthe answer to that one. Thanks.
jeff wren

Hi Jeff,
Driveway sealer is a good thing to do. The problem is when you go tore-pave, it needs to be removed and that is not easy.Sealer makes the driveway last longer, so it is a valid concept to use itas long as the driveway is in good condition.
Tom

Old Washers Suffer from mold, mildew

Tom,
While vacationing in Maine for 7 weeks, I saw your article about "oldwashers". Very glad I read it since the front-loaders are very expensive.Also, it made me think about my "research" in trying to find aclothes-washer manufacturer who still uses the lint filter "basket" thatsits on top of the agitator and water and lint flow into it from the top ofthe washer "tub". GE used to manufacture such a washer and I emailed themwith my questions as to why they stopped making that model but neverreceived an answer.The "new" style washers all supposedly "wash out" the lint into the drain-- but, oh, contrare -- try washing newly purchased towels and you'll findall the lint remains stuck to the sides of the wash tub and to thetowels!!!! I cannot understand the mentality of whoever decided that thiswould be a good idea -- instead of collecting the lint in the top of the"basket" and disposing of it in the trash. Must have been a design bysomeone who never did a load of wash.Anyway, my question to you is: do you know of any manufacturer whocontinues to make the above-described type of lint filter washing machine!Thanks much ----Pat Robb

Hi Pat,
I am not aware of anyone who does this, but this issue was not on my radar.There are after machine lint traps, that install in the drain plumbing,that are quite common and do an excellent job,probably a lot better than the in machine ones. I am sure you can find abunch of them on google.Lint can be a killer for septic fields.
Tom

Insulation

Dear Tom,
I am unable to get to my chimneys from the attic, as I am unable to get upthere myself. Can I use the spray foam insulation that comes in the cansto insulate my chimneys from the bottom up?I would be able to do it that way, but was unsure if it was safe to usethis product in this fashion. I use both oil and wood to heat with, ifthis makes a difference.My house was built in 1845 and I have had two new chimneys put in , butneither of them has the greatest of insulation surrounding them. Thechimneys are about 20 years old.Hopefully I have given you any and all of the infomation that you need toanswer my question. I have long wanted to do this, but was unsure if Ishould. Having you to ask is very nice.Thank you for any infomation you can give me. ctpomerleau@midmaine.com

Hi,
If you have a masonry chimney you can do this from below with foam.This does not meet code since you should maintain a 2" clearance tocombustibles.The reality is that this is not a big deal to me, but in the case of afire, this createsa possible pathway for heat movement to the combustibles around the chimney.Again, my feeling is that this is not a big issue, and I would insulatethis (as I have done in the past!). I would not do this with a metalchimney since a metal chimney is much less massive and less forgiving in aworst case scenario (a chimney fire).
Tom